Nice (France) & Easy: A Visit to the South of France
Nice is everything you've imagined about the French Riviera come to life. The iconic Promenade des Anglais sets the scene, where morning coffees and sunset cocktails come with endless Mediterranean views. While the seaside charm alone would be enough, Nice's strategic location makes it the perfect base for exploring the Riviera's coastal towns and hidden villages.
It’s also the perfect destination year round. Visit in February to trade winter blues for vitamin D on sunny terraces, or go in April for the first hints of beach season.
Whether you meticulously plan your days or just wander the streets discovering charming boutiques and delicious restaurants, Nice has a way of making every visit memorable.
| TO DO |
Promenade des Anglais | This is a must. Stroll or bike along this iconic 4-mile stretch. Grab a classic blue chair at Blue Beach in the afternoon to watch the waves, and enjoy a cold 1664. Or head to Ruhl Plage to have a Spritz and watch the sunset.
Note: Beachside spots tend to be touristy and a bit pricier. It’s worth it for a drink or two but there are better places to eat.
#ILoveNice | How will anyone know where you went on vacation if you don’t stop in front of this sign for a photo op?
Colline du Château (Castle Hill) | There isn’t actually a castle here (that I’m aware of) but this is a great way to get your cardio in while enjoying some of the most beautiful views of the city. If you’re lucky, a gentleman will be playing the hits of yesterday and today on his accordion.
Cours Saleya | A quintessentially French experience, there are actually four different markets: Flower Market, Fruit and Vegetable Market, Antiques/Flea Market, and the Evening Market. Check opening days and times to be sure you don’t miss out. I’ve had some great luck here with art, snacks, and clothes.
Rue Bonaparte | You’ll know you’re there when you see the street is painted blue and every outdoor table is filled with people enjoying the afternoon. Stop at Comptoir Central Électrique for a drink and some excellent people watching. This is also a great jumping off point for some shopping on Avenue Jean-Médecin.
Hike around Cap-Ferrat | This is an easy half day trip from Nice. Start on the east side of the trail and head west for the best views. The hike can vary in length (4.5km up to 15km), depending on where you start and end. The path is rocky though, so def wear sneakers. Fun side note - We saw people diving for sea urchins! If it’s open (the hotel is seasonal), consider ending your hike with a drink at the Grand Hotel Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
View from the Cap-Ferrat hike
| TO EAT / DRINK |
Normally I prefer a more curated list of places to eat and drink but in the case of Nice there are so many to mention that I figured I’d list them all and categorize them and you can decide for yourself.
Coffees
Cafe Fino | Excellent coffee and a perfect sunny spot for breakfast/brunch/lunch
One Love Coffee | Great coffee and pastries on a cute street
Le Cocodile | Nice for the sunny terrace and a coffee
Lunch/Snack
Peixes | My absolute favorite spot in Nice. I end up here at least twice during every visit. Popular with the locals, service fresh fish dishes and ice cold rosé. Go early and beat the rush.
Chez Rene Socca | Socca is a traditional chickpea pancake that is synonymous with Nice. The line looks long but don’t be deterred, it moves quickly. Try the socca and a variety of different specialties and snacky treats here.
Lunch at La Gare du Sud
La Gare du Sud | Food hall heaven for grazers! Def worth it if the weather isn’t good and/or you want to try a little bit of everything
La Pairoliere | Stopped here for a later afternoon snack of bone marrow, french fries and red wine. Settle into a cozy outdoor sofa for some stellar people watching.
La Part des Anges | Ordered wine and foie gras and it was delicious. Lively little spot with a diverse wine selection and super-friendly, knowledgable staff.
Cafe de Turin | Located in Place Garibaldi; get the seafood tower and some cold white wine and enjoy the people watching (obvi one of my favorite past times)
Les Sens | Good for lunch or dinner. Plus, a three course meal of creative seasonal dishes for two people costs the same as two cocktails at The Negresco Bar.
Dinner
Lavomatique | Super vibey spot with amazing food; def make a reso.
Maido | Charming little Japanese spot with delicious dishes that make you feel like you’re at someone’s house for dinner. Def make a reso.
Oliviera | Luckily “David-party-of-four” was a no-show so we got his dinner reservation. Pesto pasta was clearly the winning dish, but the rabbit noodle soup was a close second. All around an excellent meal and excellent vibe.
Miamici | Super approachable pasta / pizza spot. The olive oil is crazy spicy so use sparingly.
Le Frog | Super friendly staff; chill outdoor seating; great escargot
| To Drink |
Movida, Babel Babel and Waka Bar | All stellar spots for sunset drinks with amazing ocean views. Waka Bar also gets lively at night with a DJ
Le Ketje | Quirky little spot with stools that are of mismatched heights to the counter they are supposed to match with. Beers, spritzes and ciders…we tried them all. Nice little watering hole.
The Negresco Hotel | An iconic hotel with two great (but pricey) bar options:
Lobby Bar: Secure a corner table if you can, so that you can take in the grandeur while you sip your cocktail.
La Rotonde: When the weather is good, they open up the front of the bar to the Promenade; it’s the best way to end a day; sitting in this majestic room drinking an excellent dirty martini listening to live music
Tipsy Nice Bar | Very fun way to end a night; Great music, great staff and great vibes
THE LOGISTICS
Travel Date | February 2020 / April 2022 / June 2024
Flights | AMS > NCE on Transavia or EasyJet
Lodging | Airbnb > Hotel
Airbnb is my preferred choice for accommodation in Nice. It’s typically the best value and offers a more authentic local experience. Near Cours Saleya or Vieille Ville are my favorite neighborhoods to stay in. I’ve also stayed in Les Baumettes, on the western edge of the city, but it’s a bit of a hike to the promenade.
BUT if you’re set on staying in a hotel I have two reviews:
Hôtel Villa Victoria - loved it. Charming old-school French styled rooms with a gorgeous courtyard - perfect for breakfast or an afternoon drink. Location is great; an easy walk to cute coffee shops and restaurants and to the promenade.
Le Méridien - Great views and location but the experience was very basic for the cost and when we were there (April) it was heaving with tourists
Transportation |
Public transit on the tram is easy, safe and clean
Ubers are available
SNCF is a great option to/from Monaco
Pro Tips |
This is a great destination year round but during the off-season, definitely bring layers!
Public transit is clean, safe, and easy to use. Tram to the airport is about ~25 mins. Easy peasy.
SNCF is a great option to get to/from Monaco, Cannes, Èze, Antibes, and lots of other locations on the Riviera but Ubers are also available.
Be sure to check holiday schedules, off-season schedules or if you are visiting on a Sunday or a Monday as hours may vary and shops and restaurants may be closed
Nice is deceptively spread out so choose your lodging carefully or you’ll be walking quite a bit
#195Postcards
