Norway: If You Can Af-fjord It
View from the plane on the approach.
The descent into Bergen offers breathtaking views that immediately set this destination apart from other European cities. Dramatic mountains and snow-capped peaks create a landscape unlike anywhere else.
After a quick 20-minute taxi ride from Bergen Airport we arrived at Opus XVI, a great choice if you're looking for upscale accommodations with Nordic charm. Even when our room wasn't ready upon arrival, their coffee service in the elegant lobby and complimentary room upgrade turned a potential frustration into a pleasant start. The attention to detail—simple touches like proper coat hooks by the door—made the three-night stay genuinely comfortable.
Day 1
After our 6:30am flight, coffee was top priority. Kaffemisjonen is right around the corner and you should most definitely treat yourself to a stellar cup of coffee and a delicious scone.
Armed with coffee, the historic Bryggen wharf area delivered that quintessential Nordic experience we were seeking. Think of it as Bergen's answer to Copenhagen's Nyhavn, with colorful historic buildings lining the waterfront. Visiting in March means fewer crowds and better photo opportunities, though you'll miss the summer café tables that transform the area during warmer months. The wharf is a great place to grab all of your postcards and souvenirs if you’re that kind of traveler.
The north side of the wharf lined with the old colored houses.
Bergenhus Fortress as seen from the water.
Walk the full length of the wharf to Bergenhus Fortress and Rosenkrantz Tower. While we didn't have time for the full tour, the exterior views and historical significance make it worth the walk.
Endless charm down winding streets.
Bergen's real magic lies in its cobblestone side streets. You'll discover tucked-away shops, vibrant street art, and that distinctly Nordic architectural charm that makes every corner Instagram-worthy.
Torgallmenningen Square serves as the city's commercial heart. Originally designed as a firebreak, it now offers shopping and dining options. You'll likely pass through multiple times, so don't feel pressured to see everything all at once.
Head to Byparken (“the city park”) which provides a scenic backdrop with its gazebo positioned perfectly in front of the Kode Museum buildings. And for some excellent people- and duck-watching opportunities, head across to Festplassen. The sunny positioning Festplassen ideal for afternoon coffee breaks, and the Lille Lungegårdsvannet walking path offers a longer stroll if you need to stretch your legs.
For pre-dinner drinks, Vågal strikes the perfect balance between coffeehouse casualness and wine bar sophistication. The relaxed atmosphere makes it ideal to settle in for a few rounds and a light snack, maybe play a round of cards.
Restaurant Opus XVI offers an upscale French dining experience, but manage your expectations carefully. While the ambiance and service excel, food quality can be inconsistent. The fish preparations tend to be more successful than meat dishes, and be prepared for generous seasoning that might overwhelm some palates.
Day 2
Bergen Cathedral, if you zoom in you can see the cannonball hole just to the left of the stained glass window.
Bergen Cathedral deserves a visit, particularly to spot the historic cannonball embedded in the wall from the 1665 English-Dutch conflict. King Oscar's Street leads you past several interesting stops, including the Leprosy Museum at St. Jørgen's Hospital—worth adding to your list if you have extra time.
Kjøttbasaren Market (the old meat market) now houses multiple bars and restaurants, but the real draw is Egon's sunny beer garden. It's perfectly positioned for afternoon drinks and postcard writing. The Frydenlund Bryggerier Juicy IPA pairs excellently with Bergen's relaxed pace.
For city views, climb the steep switchbacks up Vetrlidsallmenningen Street. The harbor panorama justifies the effort, and this vantage point marks the beginning of the Mount Fløyen hiking trail if you're feeling adventurous.
Beautiful views over the city on a clear day.
Pingvinen offers an excellent introduction to Norwegian specialties like cured reindeer and fish pie. The retro-modern atmosphere and carefully curated beer selection make it a standout choice for authentic local flavors.
1877, located within Kjøttbasaren Market, provides a more refined dinner experience. The candlelit ambiance and wine pairings create memorable meals. Service was exceptional. Highly recommend.
1877 is set in the Kjottbasaren Market - beautiful old building
A nightcap at Last Monkey captures Bergen's fun side perfectly, mixing '90s nostalgia with creative cocktails. It's an ideal way to end your evening on a high note.
Day 3 - FJORDS!
We had good reason to worry about visibility….
No Bergen visit is complete without experiencing the fjords. Rødne Fjord Cruise Bergen - Mostraumen operates daily three-hour round trips that showcase the region's dramatic natural beauty. Book window seats inside for comfort, but don't stay there—the outdoor viewing opportunities are spectacular.
March weather conditions can shift dramatically during your cruise. We experienced everything from drizzle to snow, and each weather change revealed different aspects of the landscape's beauty. The Osterfjord and Mostraumen straits offer particularly stunning scenery, with mirror-like water reflecting snow-covered mountainsides. The trip was serene and peaceful. Truly other-worldly. I would go again in a heartbeat.
Pro Tip | Warm hat and gloves are non-negotiable. The onboard cabin provides coffee and chocolate (and beers!) for warming breaks, but you'll want to spend significant time outside for the best views.
Riding the high of our fjord visit, it was time for a quick beer and then off to stock up on snacks and wine in preparation for our train ride to Oslo in the morning.
Henrik øl-og Vinstove represents Bergen's beer scene at its finest. The comfortable atmosphere and rotating selection of local brews create the perfect environment for experiencing Norwegian social culture. Don't be surprised if you encounter lively discussions among locals—it's part of the charm.
Pro Tip | All wine stores (Vinmonopolet ) are government-run and close at 4 PM on Saturdays, so plan accordingly. Also, for gourmet provisions, skip the basic grocery stores and visit Colonialen Fetevare, an Italian deli with exceptional charcuterie and cheese selections.
Bare Restaurant in Hotel Børs delivers an exceptional conclusion to your Bergen experience. Start with cocktails in their stunning mirrored bar, then commit to the full 22-course tasting menu. Yes, it's expensive, but the perfect portioning, knowledgeable staff, and creative presentations justify the investment.
Day 4 - Bye Bye Bergen
The 9 AM departure on The Bergen Line (Bergensbanen) transforms travel time into a sightseeing opportunity. This 6-7 hour journey ranks among Europe's most scenic train routes, with the most dramatic views occurring during the first half. Book seats on the right side for optimal scenery.
Pro Tip | If your schedule allows, the Flåm detour adds world-famous fjord and mountain railway experiences to your itinerary.
Arrive in Oslo and check into the Amerikalinjen Hotel. It’s the perfect Oslo base—directly across from the main train station with easy access to major attractions. The central location and stylish accommodations make it worth the premium.
A brief walking tour covers Akershus Castle and Fortress, Oslo City Hall, and the Royal Palace. Sunday closures limit dining options, so plan accordingly.
For pre-dinner cocktails, Othilia Bar in The Grand Hotel offers sophisticated drinks in posh surroundings.
Hos Thea requires tram travel (#12 or #13) but rewards the effort with an exceptional seasonal menu. The five-course option with wine pairings showcases Nordic cuisine at its finest, though be prepared for generous pours. Standout dishes include Jerusalem artichoke soup, creative foie gras preparations, and what might be the world's best ice cream cone dessert.
Getting to dinner at Hos Thea was super easy on the tram (#12 or #13). We chose the seasonal five-course option with wine pairings to enjoy Nordic cuisine at its finest. And be prepared for generous pouring on those pairings. Standout dishes included Jerusalem artichoke soup, creative foie gras preparations, and what might be the world's best ice cream cone dessert.
Day 5 - Homeward Bound
We had both been to Oslo before, so we spent our last day at the hotel working, and the Amerikalinjen is a beautiful place to be productive. The atrium lounge provides ample workspace with strong WiFi and convenient power access, while Atlas Brasserie and Cafe handles your dining needs without leaving the building.
In conclusion, we loved our trip to Norway and there’s still so much we still want to see and explore. It’s safe to say that a second trip to Norway is a must!
THE LOGISTICS
Travel Date | March 2022
Flights | AMS > BGO then OSL > AMS on KLM
Accommodations |
Opus XVI in Bergen
Charming and well situated
Breakfast spread is fresh and delicious The fruit plate is massive, beautiful and delicious. I paired it with the chickpea curry and two poached eggs.
Amerikalinjen in Oslo
Beautifully appointed and well-situated
Transportation |
Taxis to/from the airport in Bergen
Bergen is easily walkable - no taxi needed
Bergen to Oslo (or vice versa) on the The Bergen Line (Bergensbanen) is a must
Oslo is a very walkable city, and public transit (buses) are clean and safe (of course) and easy to take all over the city.
Buses are on the honor system. Gotta love the Nordics for having faith in their citizens.
Public transit to/from Oslo Airport is non-stop and super easy from the Oslo Central Station
Pro Tips |
Optimal duration | At least five days for Bergen/Oslo combination, longer if adding extensive fjord exploration
Budget Considerations | Norway requires significant dining and drinking budgets, but the quality justifies the expense
Packing essentials | Layered clothing for variable weather, comfortable walking shoes, and warm accessories for fjord excursions
March Weather | A bit unpredictable. For example, I packed heavy winter boots expecting harsh conditions, but it was the mild so I looked like an over-prepared tourist. The moral of the story: Check the forecast and pack accordingly.
If you have time in Bergen, explore Kode Museum(s), Floibanen Funicular, Hanseatic Museum, Mount Fløyen hiking trail and stop by the Fish Market for lunch
Rødne Fjord Cruise Bergen - Mostraumen | Highly recommend for your first fjord trip, although now that I’ve done the 3-hour version I’m ready for more!
Remember that wine stores (Vinmonopolet) are government-run and close at 4pm on Saturdays. Plan accordingly.
In Oslo, Sunday closures may limit dining options so here is a list of places we aim to hit up next time: HIMKOK Distillery (cocktails), Way Down South (dinner), Hanami (dinner), and Brutus (dinner).
#195Postcards
