This was our very first trip from Amsterdam as expats! We flew into Bordeaux and picked up a rental car to drive to San Sebastian. When we travel, I'm the driver and Chris navigates. (We've tried it the other way, needless to say, it was a disaster. Someday I'll share that fun story from our Australia adventure.) Decide who's doing what before you go to avoid unnecessary arguments.

Funny story though, I forgot my license because I had my Dutch residency card and US passport, so why risk bringing my license? Oh, because I'm supposed to drive. Luckily Chris had his, which didn't ruin the trip for longer than the 10 minutes we spent grumbling about being at the mercy of my navigation skills.

The drive from Bordeaux to San Sebastian takes just under three hours with at least 10 tolls, each for random amounts.
Pro Tips | Carry bills and coins. Navigating San Sebastian while the English GPS butchered Spanish street names was almost worse than having no directions at all. Steel yourself.

For reasons unknown, we stayed in two different hotels. First was Hotel Zinema7. The location wasn't great, but we figured one night—how bad could it be?

Day 1 - Pintxos Crawl!

First things first: pintxos (small bite-sized snacks, commonly served on toothpicks). I'll be honest, going out for pintxos isn't for the meek. It's high-pressure, fast-paced madness that goes like this:

Squeeze into a crowded bar/restaurant
Find a spot to stand where you can put food/drink down
Decide what you want from chalkboards behind the bar
Wave money overhead to indicate you're ready
Yell out what you want to anyone behind the bar
Take whatever they give you
Pay
Repeat until physically unable to consume more pintxos

If this atmosphere overwhelms you, go later when things are less frantic. Otherwise, get your cash ready and watch the wine and pintxos fly.

Stop #1 Borda Berri | We nudged our way in and squeezed into two bar spots. Although we wanted everything on the menu we dialed it down to two glasses of Rioja, fish ravioli and risotto.

Stop #2 Txepetxa - Specializes in inventive anchovy pintxos with various toppings: black olive tapenade, crab and cheese melt, crab and pulpo, banana pepper and olives, the list goes on... Paired with more Rioja, obvs. They were showing figure skating on TV. Why? Nobody knows. Strangely, not the only time.

The typical pintxos scene. It can be a bit intimidating until you get the system down. If you look very closely you can see figure skating playing on the tv in the background for no good reason.

Stop #3 Bar Nestor | Small spot known for very limited menu, so make a reservation or arrive right at opening. We didn't know this, so by the time we arrived we were too late for tortilla or steaks. Luckily we miraculously found two seats at the bar and ordered tomatoes. Delicious. As we looked around at massive, delicious-looking steaks on every other table, we vowed to return next day for lunch. Spoiler: We missed the steaks again.
Pro Tip | Plan ahead if giant delicious steaks are your jam

Was actually able to get a clear shot because by midnight the crowds have thinned.

Stop #4 Ganbara | Where seafood lives until you're ready to eat it. The guy behind the counter was actually petting a crustacean while taking our order. In a serious change of pace, I drank an Imparable from the Basque Beer Project—delicious pairing with our fishy snacks. Try local beers when visiting new places. You can drink Heineken anywhere. Live a little.

Stop #5 La Viña | If you're wondering how we still had room, you're not the only one. At this point I can't eat one more bite, but our friends insisted we go here for cheesecake. Plus it was on the way home. Eating cheesecake sitting at a bar wasn't something I expected from San Sebastian, but it was glorious. I forgot I was full and devoured it.

We walked back to cancel out a few calories. Realistically we'd have to walk back to Amsterdam to make a dent, but I've made my peace with it.

The hotel was easily 100°F (37°C), so we opened the window for air and it was storming like a hurricane outside. Needless to say, we didn't get great sleep, but it wasn't entirely the hotel's fault.

Day 2 - Come to Jesus

We were hungover, but nothing coffee and a hike couldn't fix. I wish I could remember where we bought the hottest coffee this world has ever known, but it wasn't memorable otherwise. I gingerly carried it for most of our 40-minute walk, so by the time I drank it, it was lukewarm. The worst.

The city is scenic, you can't go wrong. We prioritized Monte Urgull, which served as a defense point since the 12th century. There are still remnants of old barracks, a castle, and a massive 12-meter-tall sculpture of Jesus Christ with impressive views of town and Concha Beach. He's the real draw.

Beautiful day meets beautiful view. Who knew San Sebastian had beaches?

Our route took us along the boardwalk with the Urumea River to our right and charming stone townhouses to our left. Each bridge is more grand and ornate than the last, though none as impressive as Puente Maria Cristina. You'll recognize this bridge immediately with its two massive horse sculptures atop the pillars.

We continued along the river through De Okendo Plaza, a charming little square next to Hotel Cristina Maria on our way to Paseo de La Concha. If it had been warmer we might have enjoyed the beach more, but it was April, so we continued our ascent up Mount Urgull to see Jesus.

It's a steady hike with a mix of stairs and incline, and some very progressive graffiti that requests that "Tourists Go Home." We persist. It's worth it. The views are different from every angle and Jesus keeps an eye out for you. You probably only need 30 minutes exploring before heading back to sea level.

On our way back to switch hotels, nestled among cobblestone streets, we came upon Basílica de Santa María del Coro. The exterior of this 18th-century Catholic church is beautifully ornate, and arriving early like we did, you'll have it to yourself for amateur photography. As you can see we are not in this photo, because our photography capabilities are amateur.

Again, I cannot remember why we switched hotels one day into a three day trip but we did. Regardless, before lunch we checked into Hotel Okako. Our room is VERY tiny, but the hotel is charming and is in a great location. Highly recommend.

We had lunch at La Cuchara de San Telmo. Absolute insanity. We could barely figure out where to order, and once we did, we eked out the tiniest spot to elbow up to the bar. Try the super tart cider. It helped us overcome our trauma. Before we knew it, we were enjoying pintxos: risotto, foie, and tender meat that reminded me of short rib. Figure skating on TV again. But why?

Stuffed once again, we walked to Bretxa Plaza to relax and people-watch. But the beauty and curse of pintxos is continuous snacking all day, so we didn't relax long before a pescadario-type place selling chorizo and cheese wrapped in freshly made tortilla caught our eye. Paired with two glasses of, you guessed it, Rioja! One Euro apiece, so if you're feeling brave, just get the €5 bottle. It was sunny and warm, so we sat on the steps to enjoy our purchases. I also bought coconut macarons that were exceptional.

One big draw to San Sebastian is the abundance of high-end dining. For us, that meant Arzak, the three-Michelin-star restaurant.
Pro Tip | You need to book this months in advance.

We took the bus there. Ironic since we were planning to spend an asinine amount on dinner but elected to save a few Euros on transport.

Ye olde first gen iPad. What year is it!?!

Arzak is like a converted house, so request a table upstairs, preferably in a corner by a window. The meal is Basque-inspired cuisine using fresh local ingredients, each dish creatively plated—minus the ye olde first-gen iPad used to serve one seafood dish. (They've been Michelin-starred for ages, and apparently they also keep their hardware for ages.)

The dessert steals the show, and because the sommelier was so generous, I can only remember flashes: green ice cream, skateboard presentation, frogs. Other than dessert, the meal was only so-so for the price and hype. If you're going to San Sebastian for fine dining, there are other options to consider.

The final desert course of homemade chocolates was a highlight.

After eating to blissful discomfort, we splurged on a taxi. Back home, we curled up and passed out, only to wake at sunrise to some sort of shopping cart demolition derby in the alley outside our window. I'm ready to leave San Sebastian, if only to get a good night's sleep.

Day 3 - “Exceptional Cuisine, Worth a Special Journey”

Our last day was overcast, so we headed to aptly named Dry Bar in Hotel Maria Cristina to sip coffee and Bailey's and write postcards. I love this bar. Elegant, cozy, and ideal for warming up on an overcast day.

Our choice for lunch is La Fabrica. I'd go again. While the interior isn't much to look at, lunch is tasty. We started with foie and Iberico ham, then split duck and fish. Nice and full, ready to hit the road to Elorrio.

The drive takes about an hour. There aren't many hotel choices, so we opted for the eponymous Hotel Elorrio. The lobby is clearly the most happening hangout for the geriatric crowd hosting half a dozen octogenarians drinking beer and playing cards. I was tempted to join them because they looked like they were having a blast, but we had a medieval town to explore.

Elorrio is small, charming, and worth a look. We spent maybe an hour wandering through streets full of stone houses and buildings from the 17th and 18th centuries. Good way to work up an appetite for dinner.

We returned to find that the plug-in air freshener in our room had a meltdown. The result: we were being nasally assaulted by artificial lemon smell. I wrapped the scented corpse in a towel and hand-delivered it to the front desk for proper burial. We opened our one window and prayed it would air out by dinner. Spoiler: It did not.

The main event: Dinner at Asador Etxebarri. Easily one of the best meals I've ever had. It wasn't just the food—it was the rustic yet elegant cabin housing the restaurant that made it feel like dining in someone's home; the warm greeting and our table by a roaring fireplace; being handed cold sparkling wine and treats from bone marrow broth to nibbles of chorizo and anchovies (or sardines? I can never remember which is which).

We move to the dining room and are greeted by a casually dressed man who looks like Nick Nolte. Turns out he's the sommelier. After starting our wine pairing journey, we turn our attention to our fellow diners. Most are what you expect - small groups of friends, couples, and then there's the family next to us. Mom, dad, and two boys in their late teens. But the boys are wearing sweatpants. That's right. These parents brought their kids to the No. 2 restaurant in the world and thought "ok kids, time to don your best sweatpants." Oh, and then the dad licked butter off his knife. Sweatpant-wearing-knife-lickers up in here. SMH.

We're first in, last out. Background music consists of '80s ballads and I'm here for it. Lighting is perfect; bright enough to see and appreciate presentation, but not so bright you can't relax. The knives are well-crafted with metallic-branch handles, and although we don't lick them like some patrons, we do keep using them upside down.

Highlights: The tomahawk steak steals the show. Absolute perfection. Etxebarri's own in-house-brewed beer with cascade hops. Sea urchin. Milk ice cream. Giant gorgonzola that's the stuff of nightmares (for me), but for €18 you can get it with nuts and marmalade. No thank you.

Post-dinner we cab home to find our room—even with the air freshener gone and window wide open—smells aggressively like synthetic lemons. We drag the bed to the window and attempt to breathe fresh air to fall asleep. For those keeping track, this is night three of subpar sleeping conditions.

Day 4 - Allons y a Bordeaux!

Up and out early for the road to Bordeaux. Nearly a four-hour drive, and although Chris tries to starve me, I convince him to stop for coffee. I'm reluctant about his choice of a random French rest stop, but it turns out to have a fresher selection of baked goods than most bakeries. We're in France, I shouldn't be surprised.

We chose an Airbnb in the heart of downtown, next to Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux. Bordeaux is like Paris but more charming and on a smaller scale.

First stop: lunch at Le Petit Commerce. We're nearly the last lunchers at 3pm. We split a whole fish and bottle of white. Highly recommend. They have two locations. We ate at the restaurant, but across the street is their fish cafe where people also seem to be eating happily.

Once full of fish, we head out to explore. It's chilly though, so it's not long before we stop for beer at Utopia, a cinema with a bar offering indoor and outdoor seating. Very relaxed vibe with decent beer selection. It was Easter Sunday, so finding open places was a struggle. I can't say I'd return here if given choice among all other city options, but it fit the bill for warming up and planning our day.

We found a wine bar at Boutique Hotel offering charcuterie and blind tasting. I LOVED this spot. The courtyard was cozy and blind tasting is really fun. I got all my guesses wrong but enjoyed pretending I know anything about wine.

Next up: champagne at Secret d'Initiés. We sat outside in a quaint alley and enjoyed people-watching. Not a bad stop.

Last stop (how are we still standing?) was dinner at Brasserie Bordelaise. Fine, nothing special. Suitable when hungry. We ordered carpaccio, pâté, chicken, and pasta and discussed the merits of Legos vs. Barbies.

For those keeping score, this was my first decent night's sleep. No thanks to my pillow that was essentially folded pillowcase covers stuffed into a pillowcase.

Day 5 - St. Emilion

If you choose a day trip to wine region, there are lots of options. We chose a semi-private tour through Ophorus that I would highly recommend. If you want to be chauffeured château to château, this is the way to go. Unless you're dying to go to Petrus or something, let the guides choose destinations because you really can't go wrong.

We left just enough time to grab pastries and coffee at Canelés Baillardran before meeting our group. Great coffee and pastries with several city locations.

This small, family-owned winery was full of old-world charm.

First Stop - Château Grangey - Recently renovated, offering only three vintages. We learned about Grand Cru, setting us up well for next stops.

Second Stop - Château Guadet - Very old, very charming. The owner used to own half of Petrus! Quite a contrast from the newly renovated château we'd just visited. Guadet uses all old-school winemaking tools and techniques. The vines are down the street, so they harvest and walk it back through town using wine tunnels, which you can apparently also use to get to certain parts of town underground. Reminds me of our Veuve Clicquot visit in Champagne.

The tasting at a wine shop in town had some real highlights.

Third Stop is at a tasting at a wine shop in town called Le Cellier de Saint-Emilion. Wines here were excellent so we bought two bottles.

Third Stop - Le Cellier de Saint-Emilion - A wine shop that offers tastings. Wines here were excellent, so we bought two bottles.

We had free time for lunch and explored the town. Walked up to Saint-Emilion Church for some of the best town views. Grabbed sandwiches and beers at a very casual snack shop - La Bonheur. Lastly, we bought macarons at Matthieu Mouliérac. Bordeaux macarons differ from the airy, pastel-colored ones I'm used to. These are more like chewy cookies. Either way, delicious. Try some.

The lovely little town of Saint-Emilion.

Last but certainly not least, we stop at Chateau Tour Saint Christophe. They have a stunning new tasting room overlooking sprawling vines. A perfect way to close out our day.

For our final meal in Bordeaux, we choose Le Gabriel for dinner. We snag a lovely window seat with river Garonne views. While dinner was forgettable, dessert definitely wasn't: an egg white ice cream puff pastry tower with almond filling called a 'choux.' Delightful.

Pro Tips |

THE LOGISTICS

Travel Date | March 2018

Flights | AMS > BOD on KLM

Accommodations |

San Sebastian - Hotel Zinema7 and Hotel Okako
Bordeaux - Airbnb

Transportation | We rented a car from the Avis at the Bordeaux airport. Easy and affordable.

Pro Tips |

Bring Euros (bills and coins) for tolls if driving between Bordeaux and San Sebastian
Actually, just bring cash period, it makes your pintxos experience in San Sebastian much easier
Pintxos bars open late, so go later to avoid crowds if you can. You could also hire a guide, though we didn't. Not sure it would be worth it, but depends on your level of confidence in crowds.
For any fine-dining (Michelin-starred restaurants) in San Sebastian, book at least a month ahead
Bordeaux airport isn't close to the city and public transit is slow. Keep that in mind for planning purposes.
For stress-free Saint-Emilion exploration, book a private or semi-private tour like ours with Ophorus

#195Postcards

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