Savory Muffins and Scenic Mountains in Queenstown, NZ

Queenstown is a great jumping off point for a visit to New Zealand. Downtown is scenic and walkable. It’s a college town mixed with a ski village (think Vail, CO) and has lots of bars, restaurants and stores. Its proximity to skiing, hiking, and wine tasting also make it an excellent home base.

TO EAT

Fergburger | In Ferg We Trust. This is a local institution that offers fast casual high-quality burgers. Queue to get your burger and either stand out front to eat your burger or take it to go or be comfortable doing the standing and eating thing.

Ferg’s Bar | Small footprint, big quality. Great Bloody Marys and Micheladas. They also serve a Fergburger but it’s a higher quality beef and accoutrements.
Pro Tip | Get a table here while one person gets in line at Fergburger and take turns going outside to devour your burger and then coming back in for cocktails once you’re done.

Ferg Bakery | Great for takeaway coffee in the morning. Their baked goods are insanely good. I bought a loaf of sourdough to have toast every morning with my coffee.

Bespoke | Delicious. Great coffee and their breakfast options are extensive and delicious. Sit outside by the fireplace or under a heater and enjoy mountain views with your breakfast at this vibey little spot.
Pro Tip | If you have never tried a savory muffin then you absolutely must try one here.

Winnie’s | Delicious pizza. If it’s sunny, grab a table outside on the upstairs patio that overlooks downtown.

Toast + Oak | AMAZING. Possibly the best restaurant in Queenstown. Let’s start with the cocktails: I chose one made with honey and thyme and it is maybe the most inventive and delicious cocktail I’ve ever had. And that’s saying something because I do extensive cocktail research at home and abroad. The sourdough bread brought a tear to my eye, it was that good. The food menu had too many interesting options so we went for the Feed Me option and let the chef choose. Excellent. Excellent. Excellent.

The Lodge | Feels a bit like eating dinner in a Ralph Lauren catalog. Grab the window table, complete with lit candles and pelts. A balanced meal of oysters followed by pasta is a must.

Mapo 88 | Unfussy Korean restaurant. Great option for sharing noods after a long chilly day of walking and wining.

TO DRINK

Atlas | Cool little beer bar with an excellent draft selection that looks out onto Lake Wakatipu. Grab a seat inside at the counter if you can. Otherwise, outdoor tables come complete with blankets and heaters if the season calls for it. Bonus: All seats offer a view of the giant kiwi statue with Lake Wakatipu in the background.

The Winery | Non-committal? Try all the wines on offer with their card system and indulge in their epic charcuterie.
Pro Tip | Instead of the typical system where you load the card and spend down the balance, they hold a card on file and you spend until you’re ready to pay. I will never financially recover.

Bardeaux | A cigar lounge without the cigars. Think: big leather armchairs, dark wood panelling, whiskey lined bar, and a roaring fireplace. Bartenders here are super knowledgeable and friendly. I had an amazing gin martini made with a local gin (Rifters Quartz) that I still think about.
Pro Tip | Arrive right when it opens and score the sofa and armchairs in front of the fireplace.

Little Blackwood | Creative happy hour menu and lovely outdoor seating with lake views.

Flame Bar | Great Bloody Marys and a cozy fireplace vibe. Food seems pretty touristy / middle of the road here though so stop at the Bloody’s.

TO DO

Steamer Wharf | Good options for bars and restaurants here and beautiful views of Lake Wakatipu. If you’re lucky you’ll see the TSS Earnslaw Steamship docked to pick up its next tour group.

Helicopter Tour through Milford Sound | This is an absolute must. Despite my initial anxiety about flying in a helicopter over mountains, it was worth every second. The highlight was our first stop on the glacier, where we stepped out to enjoy the pristine snow and breathtaking views. Then we flew low over forests past dramatic waterfalls before landing on the beach. An unforgettable experience that justified facing my fears.
Pro Tips | Book in advance to ensure you get the date and time you prefer. Keep an eye on the weather so that you can change days or times if needed. It can get canceled because of weather so book your tour for the beginning of your trip just in case.

Te Kararo Park | Delightful for a morning run, afternoon walk, or a round of frolf. Grab a seat on one of the benches at the point to enjoy the breathtaking views. Bonus if you’re there when the flora is in bloom.

Deadly Ponies | I don’t usually recommend shopping, but I bought a bag here that I’m obsessed with. This is the ideal option for a one-of-a-kind bag.

THE LOGISTICS

Travel Date | December 2015 + April 2025

Lodging |

• Airbnb is the way to go in my opinion but there are some luxe boutique hotels that I have my eye on for a future stay

• December 2015: Alpine Valley | Super tranquil and cozy with amazing views of Lake Wakatipu. There is a bus stop at the top of the hill just a minute’s walk from the apartment, but if you prefer to be able to walk into town (and you don’t mind paying a bit more), choose somewhere else.

• April 2025: Cozy Airbnb on Hay Street. It’s up a bit of a hill but it’s only a five-minute walk into town.

Flights |

• December 2015: MEL > CHC on Virgin Australia

• April 2025: MEL > ZQN on Air New Zealand (by far the friendliest airline I’ve ever traveled with)

Transportation |

• Uber is available and super easy / reliable

• Public buses are reliable, just make sure you flag it down as they won’t just stop at every stop

Pro Tips |

• We booked our Milford Glacier Helicopter Tour on this site and chose the Milford Extended.

• Oysters in New Zealand are next level. I recommend an oyster a day.

• Savory muffins are a thing here and they will change your life. You haven’t lived until you’ve had a muffin with feta, pepper and onions. Yum.

• Take advantage of the happy hours!

• The ride from the airport to downtown is a one lane road for large stretches, so plan accordingly. The ride can be as quick as 15 minutes or as long as 45 minutes depending on traffic.

#195Postcards