Ksamil, Albania: A Ferry Tale
Përshëndetje nga Shqipëria! (Greetings from Albania!)
Ksamil can best be described as a manufactured Ibiza on the Albanian Riviera, and I mean that as a recommendation with conditions attached. The water is the best I swam in all year, the beach clubs have all the basics and are inexpensive, and the food is fine without ever being the reason you came. Visit for three or four days, plan the ferry properly, and you will have a very good time. Below is what we did, what I would repeat, and the one logistical mistake that cost us a flight.
First things first: the ferry will get you!
If you choose to fly into Corfu and ferry to Ksamil, I recommend that you book your ferries in advance.
On the Corfu to Ksamil route we had no issue buying tickets same day. We sipped ice cold Alphas, enjoyed some local dog watching, and waited for Stavros (our boat) to arrive. I will note that Stavros changes speed and direction often enough that the crossing feels less like transport and more like a training drill. Bring water and low expectations.
On the return we tried to buy ferry tickets back to Corfu on the morning we wanted to travel. They were sold out for the entire day. We ended up with an unplanned day in Ksamil and missed our flight home. Book the return ferry when you book the outbound one. Not the day before. Not the morning of.
The Beach Clubs
This is the actual reason to come. The clubs open, close and rebrand constantly, so treat any specific names below as suggestions rather than a plan. One of the ones we booked had already shut by the time we arrived, and something else had opened in its place. Nobody seemed troubled by this, including us.
What to expect:
Front row loungers if you turn up early.
Two DJs playing over each other from neighbouring properties.
Vendors walking the sand with the strangest snack inventory I have encountered, including a man carrying what I was certain was a sack of mussels that turned out to be red grapes.
Water: Perfect temperature, clear, and worth staying in until the sun has properly gone.
Beachfront lunch options are nice. Think grilled fish, calamari, fresh salads.
What’s not so nice? The table wine. Everywhere it is garbage. Order beer, raki, or a bottle you have actually chosen.
What’s iffy? We ordered a mojito at one club that arrived electric green and tasted like Ecto Cooler, which is either a warning or a recommendation depending on your relationship with the nineties.
Panorama | Arrive at this beach club after 3pm and ask nicely and you may get the chairs for free. The girl running the front rang her dad, who gave the okay. Coronas and raki, mossy steps into the water, and the swim is lovely. This was the best value of the four days.
To Eat
Nothing here will be the best meal of your life, and that is fine. Lunch by the water or dinner in town works.
Ftelea Fish Taverna | The best white wine we drank all trip, and the best table in the place is the one facing the street so you can people watch. Oysters were good. Salad was good. The fish was unremarkable, which is saying something in a fishing town. Order raki as a closer.
Fellow patron at Mr Crab is a kitten
Ostro | Food arrives at breakneck speed, which initially feels concerning, until you realise it is simply how everyone here serves. Not a complaint, just a recalibration on expectation.
Mr Crab | Lunch, fine, on the water. The tiny kitten patron with the upset stomach at the table next to us did not affect our meal but did affect the floor.
Grill Zone | Up a rocky hill, which is more of a hike than the map suggests. Meat sampler, a big salad, cold beers. Straightforward and decent.
To Drink
Vamos Cocktail Bar
Vamos | We went three nights running, which tells you something. Excellent drinks, the right kind of busy. You’ll know you’re there when you see a signpost outside pointing to every other city on earth. Get there early enough to guarantee a table.
Lounge Bar Bermuda | Beanbag chairs and margaritas. I have views about beanbag chairs that I will not put in writing. Go once.
Sugar Mountain (aka Sugar Bay) | We ordered strawberry daiquiris after midnight and I am fairly sure the bartender has not forgiven us. They were yum though and the vibe is good.
Would I Go Back?
Yes. Three or four days is perfect for a reset. Focus on beach clubs to get the most out of the town.
THE LOGISTICS
Travel Date | September 2023
Flights |
AMS > CFU on Easyjet
Transportation |
Ferry to/from Corfu to Ksamil
Taxis are easy, but walking to your destinations is even easier in Ksamil. Bonus: Roosters will cheer you on along your journey.
Lodging | Sunlight Hotel
Pool and pool view at Sunlight Hotel
Centrally located
Decent breakfast spread
Order americanos, not the drip coffee. Trust me.
Free beers while you wait to check in (only during check-in, we tested this).
Honor bar of cooler beers for the rest of the day.
NOTE: Our room key opened our friends' room, and theirs opened ours. I don’t know if that was a quirk of checking in as a group at the same time or something broader, because I only stayed once. It made for a good prank but I would still want to know before booking.
Pro Tips |
Remember to book your return ferry at the same time as your outbound. They will sell out.
Beach clubs turn over constantly. Do not build a plan around one name.
Table wine is not worth the euro. Beer, raki, or a named bottle.
#195Postcards
Sunset at Panorama Beach Club
