Although Costa Rica has been on my list for ages, I normally wouldn’t fly 11 hours from Europe to Central America for vacation. That said, at the time that we went to Costa Rica, very few places were open for travel, even with a vaccination or a Covid test. We absolutely loved it though and I can’t wait to go back and explore more of this beautiful country.

Our two week trip to Costa Rica turned into three weeks thanks to changes in Covid testing and entry requirements to The Netherlands so we hopped around the country a bit between hotels and Airbnbs, between jungle and beach. Our stops included:

Liberia > Playa Conchal > Playa Grande > Arenal > Tamarindo > Los Sueños.

We arrived late into Liberia to meet up with our friends who flew in from Chicago and stayed for just one night at the Hilton Garden Inn because it was close to the airport. We didn’t have high expectations but it was surprisingly nice! Breakfast - slow but tasty. Gym - small but clean and has all the basics. Rooms - basic. Bonus #1: You can ask Budget to pick you up from the hotel to get your rental car. Bonus #2: Great lobby shops to pick up a few necessities. Bonus #3: BREWERIES!

There are three breweries within walking distance! Captain J Match, Papagayo and Numu. If you don't have time to stop in and enjoy the breweries, I highly recommend that you buy some beer and bring it with you to wherever else you might be heading. We found that although there are a ton of local beers, they are largely only available at breweries. Regular bars, even at hotels, tend to just serve brands you could get anywhere - Corona, Heineken, etc.

Drive about an hour to the Westin to enjoy the adults-only all-inclusive option to really start our vacation out on the right foot. I highly recommend this. We get upgraded and our room is legit. Huge outdoor balcony with a swing and a tub and a sitting area. Stocked mini-fridge and room service is included. Plus we have 1.5 baths which, for anyone who knows me, knows that multiple bathrooms on vacation is a must.

The restaurants are pretty good and very different. (You can skip all of this if you have no plans to go to the Westin.)

Caracola - We had a lunch and a dinner there and both were solid, but not mind-blowing. Seafood salad was the winner for lunch. And the cocktails options are refreshing. The dinner menu is somewhat asian-inspired and we get a bunch of things to share, including chicken Chow Mein, spring rolls (excellent), gyozas, sangria and sake. Skip the calamari.

Mitra - This is where the breakfast buffet is and there are endless options. Anything you can think of. Plus there’s a with a wide variety of iced coffee drinks. I try a slushy coffee with bailey’s which easily constitutes my daily allowance of calories. There was also a lunch buffet here. We got the seafood paella (big winner) and tequila shots (choose your own adventure here).

Spirula - Dinner appetizers were meh but the pizza and pastas were excellent. For lunch the Cobb salad was delicious and the Spritzes were perfectly balanced. I think we did two lunches here because it was lovely.

Faisanela - Dinner here was alright, but not the best even though it’s marketed as the highest end restaurant on the property. Best things here were the arancini and the frutti di mare. Pulpo was a miss. Wine list was not good. Not good at all. They also serve breakfast here some days which was better quality than the buffet at Mitra. It’s all a la carte - omelets were excellent and there is a big mimosa menu with some creative options.

Bamboo - Dinner at nice window table at the front of the restaurant. We ordered the sushi sampler, gyozas, a few rolls, and tried every specialty cocktail. It was solid.

Other amenities:

Spa is very nice and tranquil although the gel mani doesn’t last as long as I’d like; Opt for a massage on the beach from the women set up along the beach -at $20/hour they are easily the best value going.;
Gym is excellent with a lovely view of the golf course;
Golf course is pristine and challenging; quiet and well kept. Some holes had great views over the ocean and there are iguanas all over the place. I’ve heard you can spot monkeys on the course but sadly we did not. Rental clubs were great quality if you don’t want to lug your own, and fill a bag with beers from the mini bar and bring it because drinks on the course are not included but no one batted an eye when I showed up with an entire cooler.
Tennis courts are well-kept and luckily there is a cold water station nearby to ensure that no one perished from heat stroke since it was hotter than Hades the day we played.

The ultimate selling point of the Westin though, is the adults-only pool with the swim up bar. I cannot get enough of a good swim up bar. It’s also an open bar and we use that benefit to the fullest. Sparkling wine, beers, pina coladas, you name it, they have it. The chicken fingers are excellent. Do NOT get the BLT. It is not good. Also, be careful of coatis - they will eat anything and they are not afraid of humans.

After a few days of luxury, it’s off on our 45-minute drive to Playa Grande to join a few friends at an Airbnb. On the way, we stop for a beer at Brothers of Ale. Nice outdoor space. Great beers. But they’re missing a trick by not having anything you can buy and take with you, so if that’s in your plans. Bring your own growler.

Casa Tres Cocos was the perfect house for us. Five bedrooms and 4.5 bathrooms and lots of common areas. It had a large backyard with a pool, hammocks, and a grill. Kitchen was very well stocked, and they had bonus items like boogey boards and beach towels. Plus its backyard’s backyard is the ocean. Can’t go wrong. Well, you can: don’t rely too heavily on the management company for this house. They might respond eventually but you’re better off figuring things out on your own. I would still stay there again though.

Backyard of Tres Cocos, what more do you need?

The beach out back of Tres Cocos was stunning.

First things first: the beach. Sunsets are stunning. Water is calm. Beach is quiet. But if you’re looking for a bit more action, only a few minutes walk brings you to a busier section full of surfers and fishermen. If surfing is your jam stop by Matos Surf Shop to rent a board. People there are super nice and helpful. And the Wil-Mart is the place to go for whatever you need - wine, beer, Bloody Mary mix, bug spray. Plus the guy who owns it is really nice and super helpful.

For the most part we grilled at the house but the few times we did go out the food was exceptional. For lunch definitely get tacos from Taco Star. The woman who runs it (a Texan no less) makes each taco from scratch. I recommend grabbing a beer and enjoying the people watching. For dinner we stopped at El Huerto for pizza. Very cool open air restaurant with ice cold beers and creative pizza toppings. Would definitely come back to both spots.

The Pacific coast of Costa Rica is well known for exceptional fishing, I highly recommend a day of it. We chose a charter with Capullo and they were excellent. There were six of us, and they came and picked us up at the house and drove us to meet the boat in Tamarindo. On the jog out we see loads of spinner dolphins, so named because they do these corkscrew twirls in the air as they jump. After spending a few hours trolling for big game we’re nearly halfway through the day and we still haven’t caught any fish. So I sit in the fighting chair in the hopes of summoning some fish through intention. It works! One by one we each reel in a fish or two. We also do the obligatory holding of the fish which is slimier and musclier than I anticipated.

After a very long day of fishing, we headed back to the house where we had scheduled chefs from Let Me Cook For You to come to the house and cook the massive amount of tuna we caught. Dinner was excellent. Very fresh and creative. Pro tip: Ask them to cook everything you catch. We didn’t have the strength to cook it all and in the end we left quite a bit behind, which kills me. Fun Fact: Our friend was stung by a scorpion that was hiding in his shoe, and luckily one of the chefs was there to assure us that scorpions in Costa Rica are not poisonous. Although she did warn him that his lips may go numb, which they did.

It’s time for us to say goodbye to our travel companions and head to Nayara. We love the Relais & Chateaux brand and Nayara is no exception. The drive is about 3.5 hours, but if you want to cut 20 minutes or so out of the drive, you can take the road up past wind farms near Tejona as a shortcut. This shortcut is best suited with a car with four-wheel drive as the road is less than paved. No fiats need apply. Beware of cows strolling down the middle of the road.

The grounds of Nayara are like a postcard.

Upon arrival we were whisked to a terrace nestled in the jungle and offered a welcome drink with a rum topper. I immediately knew I was going to love it there. Definitely book your excursions as soon as possible - they’ll ask you about this at check-in. The weather every day turns on a dime so it’s typically no use trying to pick the “best weather day”.

The resort is very hilly and lush, with meandering paths leading you all over the property, and for the first day or so we are constantly getting lost. Our room is spectacular. The view from the back deck is all jungle which makes the hammock, two comfortable chairs and hot tub feel like we’re at a private residence. At night we can hear the howler monkeys running across the roof, and well, howling.

The bed is gigantic and comfortable and every night, as part of turndown service, we get homemade sweet treats on our nightstands. It’s delightful. There’s an outdoor shower - my favorite amenity. This place is stunning and peaceful and I never want to leave.

The restaurants are very good and very different, but be prepared to drop some cash.
(You can skip all of this if you have no plans to go to the Nayara.)

Cielito Lindo - main pool with a swim up bar. This is the busiest, most social pool. If you want to strike up a conversation with other travelers, this is the place to do it.

Amor Loco - The decor reminds me of New Orleans. That aside, we had dinner here our first night. Got a nice outdoor table by the pool. The waiter recommends the Mushroom Ceviche. It’s meh. Actually, there are a handful of mushroom dishes. Either this is a popular local ingredient or they are trying to offload some turning mushrooms. Zucchini flower Blossoms are the way to go for apps. And the meal is fully recovered from those mushrooms when we have the Tropical Cazuela Seafood Bouillabaisse. Wow. Flavorful with red and green Curren and bean glass noodles. Plus it arrives on a little charming fish plate.

Kali Kali - Although they offer Happy Hour at a few of the bars on property (which you should absolutely take advantage of given the price of drinks), this was my favorite. We sat in the at the swim up bar to watch the first half of the Super Bowl. Mint coladas - holy cow those are good.

Nostalgia Wine Bar - We had dinner here twice, and both were really good. First time we sat at the bar to watch the second half of the Super Bowl (i.e. watch Brady and Gronk win the Super Bowl! I know I just lost a few readers here…) This is a great place to different types of wine using their wine dispenser. The staff are very knowledgeable and happy to guide you if you’d like. The sushi rolls, gyoza, and crab wontons are all on point. Food comes from Asia Luna in case you’re debating between the two restaurants at any point. The second time there we joined a few new friends that we met and had a custom menu with pairings out on the deck. The menu was delicious and very creative: Heart-shaped sushi, tuna crude, beef yakitori and potatoes, a fish dish, and the dessert was some sort of sweet egg roll. It’s critical that you know only the basics of this random custom menu. Thank you for reading to this point.

Mis Amores - this was our breakfast choice most days and it was excellent. The iced coffee? Strong and delicious. The food? Tasty. The bird watching? Delightful. The French toast? Might be the best I’ve ever had. Definitely order it. We also had dinner here one night. We were drunk though so it was probably good but I can’t remember. I had pasta maybe?

Room Service - I mean actually room service, this is not the name of a restaurant. Fish tacos and falafel pita are excellent. Don’t bother with the Caesar salad. It is small and pitiful.

We did two excursions from the hotel: Caño Negra and Rio Celesté. I would highly recommend both. And probably many others, we just didn’t have time to do more. Nayara arranges for coffee and breakfast for the ride to the destination and arranges for your lunch at a local restaurant post-excursion. It’s worth noting that the excursions are very expensive and you could definitely drive yourself to both and save some money. In particular Rio Celesté is one that would be very easy to self-guide. That said if money is no object they make it very easy and the guides are excellent.

Excursion #1: Caño Negra - Drive out is about 2.5 hours and totally worth it. Pass loads of wildlife and different types of farms - sugar cane, papaya, orange, pineapple, etc. They plant trees in lines to act as fences. I love it all. Every detail. I’m that person on the tour hanging on the tour guide’s every word and asking questions like a fourth grader.

We had a private pontoon boat stocked with ice cold beers and waters. Right away we were seeing wildlife everywhere.Highlights: Howler monkeys - very lazy. Side-stepping 100 cow patties all the way back to the boat. Chris gets mosquito bites on his face somehow. Iguanas leaping out of trees to avoid the Capuchin Monkeys (which our guide calls the Monkey Mafia because they’re thieves and bullies), Caimans (like gators), Jesus Christ Lizards (because they can run across the top of the water), Egrets (I don’t have comments for each animal), Turtles (what did I JUST say?), and TONS of Spider Monkeys swinging like maniacs through the tress. There is no one else out on the river except for a few locals fishing. It’s very peaceful and towards the end of the ride we enjoy two ice cold beers to celebrate our successful animal sightings.

On the way back we have lunch in town at La Fortuna. Very good local fare which is deliciously filling. Plus they make their own hot sauce which is excellent.

Excursion #2: Rio Celesté - On our drive out our tour guide somehow spots a toucan while driving 40mph. We pull over and take a few photos. Toucans are amazing. As colorful as Sam, the cartoon toucan on the Fruit Loops box.

The whole hike takes a little over an hour end-to-end and is very manageable. There are no steep hills, lots of shade, and while the path gets a bit rocky at points it’s still fairly easy.There is an impressive turquoise blue waterfall, although the knotted stairway that takes you there might be a bit tricky if your knees aren’t the best. The sulfur springs were an affront to my nostrils. The tiny suspension bridges added the slightest element of adventure. All in all a great little hike with a diverse offering of sights and smells.

On the way back we stop for lunch at Tenory; another great local spot. We ordered the spinach soup and followed it up with arroz con pollo with fries, and chicken fajitas. I don’t think you can go wrong here. We also stopped at the Árbol de la Paz. It’s a massive 400 year old tree and although it was very cool, it was a five minute stop at most. We stopped there because it was on our way home, I would not go out of my way to see it if I were you.

A few more notes about how AMAZING Nayara is:

Hot springs - There is a main one that has a bar, and although it was a tough choice, we chose a hot spring that was tucked away so we had it all to ourselves. I’m not typically a ‘hot tub person’ (too hot) but these are the perfect temperature for me - like a very, very warm bath. It’s so relaxing and peaceful in the warm water, looking out at the jungle…

Gym - Really nice and has all the basics, including water and towels.

Yoga - Do this. There is a huge yoga pagoda with free classes offered every morning. One morning during my class a torrential downpour broke out and I’ve honestly never been happier - stretching and listening to the sounds of the rain.

Spa - Lovely. Plus the gel manicure I got looked great and lasted for ages.

After six blissful days, we eventually had to leave Nayara and head to our next destination: Tamarindo. I’m mixed on Tamarindo so I created a separate post that you can find here.

Post-Tamarindo we hopped back in the car at the crack of dawn for the four hour drive to the Los Sueños Marriott.. At this time, we had to get a PCR Covid test 72 hours before our flight. Luckily the Marriott offered that service on-premise which made our logistics so much easier.

Our room was really lovely. There was a hammock IN the room and the patio door opened to a small private terrace with steps into the pool shared with a few other rooms. There were even a few shared donut floats for us to use.

For such a nice, well-rated property, the restaurants aren’t great. Head off property for lunch and dinner if you’re looking for good quality.

Hacienda Kitchen - Breakfast is included but anything ‘hot’ is an up-charge, which the exception of waffles. Needless to say we had waffles both mornings.

Zoe - We had lunch here at the hotel. It was decent. We ordered tacos and a burger. There was a poor beer selection (no craft beers) so I ordered a margarita, which came in a pint glass so you know it’s going to be good…

Ocho - We had dinner there the first night…it was ok…it was an odd vibe. They seem to be going for ‘high-end sports bar’ but it was coming off as ‘used to be a high-end bar that but lived a hard life and this is what’s left’. The overhead fans didn’t work so it was muy caliente. We ordered ceviche to start, with octopus and tuna as our mains. The mains come out within five minutes of the starter - also not a good sign - so they gave us a free dessert. That was actually pretty good.

Bambu - For our second, and final, dinner in Los Sueños we headed to the marina hoping for one last excellent meal in Costa Rica. It was not meant to be. The restaurant was decent. Nothing wrong in particular, but nothing special.

After an exception three weeks traversing Costa Rica I can say with confidence that we will be back. It’s such a beautiful country with so much to offer. Pura vida.

THE LOGISTICS

Travel Date | February 2021

Flights | AMS > LIR then SJO > AMS on KLM

Lodging |

Hilton Garden Inn - recommend as a quality spot for a night to shake off your flight before heading somewhere better
Westin - recommend if you’re looking for a nice all-inclusive, adults-only stay
Casa Tres Cocos - highly recommend for a group of family or friends
Nayara - would highly, highly recommend
Marriott - recommend if you’re ok with mediocre food and just need a place to stay that is not far from the airport

Transportation |

Budget was really good to us and had good prices

Pro Tips |

Driving in Costa Rica can oscillate between paved and unpaved roads so four wheel drive is recommended and a manual transmission is useful. Traffic can also be brutal due to a lot of one lane roads so plan your road trips accordingly if you’re on a time table.
Mosquitos are no joke in Costa Rica. We packed the individually wrapped Off Wipes and carried them everywhere.
At the Westin skip the spa and opt for a massage from the women set up along the beach - they are easily the best value going. We were going daily.
Nayara
- It’s a pricey here so we make every effort to get to happy hour every day where they offer two-for-one cocktails. Everything is freshly made and delicious.
- Definitely book your excursions as soon as possible. The weather every day turns on a dime so it’s typically no use trying to pick the” best weather day”.
- No need to bring a raincoat anywhere. They have umbrellas all over the property and they offer ponchos for all of the excursions.
- Wear closed toed shoes on all of the excursions and carry flip flops if you think you’ll need them.

#195Postcards

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