Tamarindo: A Tale of Two Lodgings
Tamarindo has pros and cons but in the end it’s an easy place to be.
Tamarindo wasn't on our destination list initially, but friends had recently raved about it, so we decided to give it a try. We were staying at Nayara near Arenal, spending all our hard-earned money, so a 3.5-hour drive seemed worth it to stretch our vacation savings. (For more about that trip, check it out here).
When visiting new destinations, lodging choice can make or break the experience for me. In Tamarindo, we initially chose poorly but thankfully got a second chance to improve our situation.
Lodging #1: Hotel Diria
THE GOOD | The location is unbeatable. Diria sits beachfront with an open-air bar and restaurant overlooking the beach. Order piña coladas with extra rum shots and enjoy the people watching.
There's also an adults-only pool across the street in a secluded spot. The clientele there was 65+ and living their best lives. We enjoyed spritzes at the swim-up bar, which were excellent. Shady cabanas and lounge chairs were plentiful. Oddly, the pool music included Christmas tunes in February.
I’m torn on towel animals…are we on a Caribbean cruise in 1995!?!
THE BAD | The hotel offers two building options, both with dated rooms. One has ground-level rooms that are noisy during the day due to a neighboring club and people on the lawn right outside your room. The other building has three levels and, while set back from the beach activity during daytime with lovely sunset views, at night you hear every vehicle on the main road.
The service was frazzled, and maybe this was a Covid thing. The included breakfast was chaotic with about two servers handling 30 tables. Coffee and water are self-serve if you can find clean mugs/glasses. But the coffee is terrible, so walk to Nordico or Breaking Bread for a decent cup instead.
We waited ages for food, and when it finally arrived, it was surprisingly good—a fresh fruit plate and traditional breakfast option. Choose wisely—breakfast was tasty but not recommended with better options nearby. Lunch was equally stressful with two servers now covering 50+ tables. We ordered wings and nachos. Nachos were good, wings were acceptable. Wouldn't return for lunch.
THE UGLY | The towel ticket system required for pool towel use was the tackiest element of our stay. At $300/night, we shouldn't need to fear a $20 fine for a towel.
Beachfront at Diria: Prepare for non-stop bird whistles from vendors on the beach and sidewalks. Speaking of vendors, Tamarindo is apparently the place to buy pottery on the beach. We overheard a couple arguing: "Just buy the bowl Monica...I don't care which one...You already have three in the room...Just buy it or let this guy move on..." Save your sanity and choose a quieter beach.
After a few days at Diria, we moved to an Airbnb and our quality of life improved exponentially.
Lodging #2: Airbnb - Casa Miel
This is more like it, I could work remote like this any day.
While Diria made Tamarindo feel designed for Carnival Cruise lovers wanting a "local experience," the Airbnb transformed it into a hippy beach town. Either way, Tamarindo is somewhat gritty, but safe.
The Airbnb was perfect. We had a deck for sunset watching, monkey viewing, dining, and card games. It featured a hammock, grill, and private pool. Very modern. The kitchen had limited utensils, so don't plan elaborate meals. Also, watch for hotdog-sized grasshopper carcasses in the yard. .
Our Airbnb sat in a new development about 500 feet uphill from the beach and Jardin Tamarindo Food Truck Park. Very peaceful. A well-stocked grocery store with an ATM was a short drive away (walkable, but we avoided carrying groceries uphill).
Now, most importantly - where to eat!
I dunno if it’s copyright infringement but I loved the logo at Breaking Bread.
BREAKFASTS
Nordico | Excellent iced coffees. This shop offers a great workspace or terrace breakfast option. We should have bought their beans.
Breaking Bread | Wonderful iced coffee plus a variety of freshly baked goods. Perfect for breakfast or lunch.
LUNCHES
Jardin Tamarindo Food Truck Park | Cool concept with chill vibes. Slightly pricey for a food truck park but they have a great local beer selection.
El Mercadito | Despite Costa Rica's numerous breweries, we found only Coronas or Heinekens here. However, the tuna poke bowl from Ohana Poke compensated nicely.
DINNERS
For dinner or pre-dinner snacks, head to El Be for sangria and octopus. Both are excellent. We grabbed a table in the sand to watch the sunset. Highly recommended. A live band played in the background, clearly unfamiliar with their lyrics—similar to me singing La Bamba. Fire dancers unexpectedly appeared for added entertainment.
Great margs at Little Lucha.
Little Lucha!!! We ate here twice during our stay. It's amazing. Margaritas are excellent; pineapple and jalapeño was definitely my favorite. Tacos were stellar. Chips, guacamole, and salsa—all delightful. The owner is very friendly.
Patagonia | Delicious food and entertainment. Local dogs and cats wander the open-air patio. A stray dog actually vomited at the adjacent table, but we were enjoying our meal and company so much we barely noticed. We ordered empanadas, steaks with freshly made chimichurri, and enormous glasses of sangria. Exceptional.
La Baula | Very cool atmosphere. Perfect for families with its massive play area and picnic tables. Child-free diners can sit in the main room overlooking the playground, which we chose. We shared two pizzas—recommend the Baula special. Finished with limoncello. Delightful. Side note: Pizzas are available to go.
Antichi Sapori | Tucked down a side alley (essentially beneath Nordico) and owned by an authentic Italian clearly passionate about his cuisine. We ordered caprese, pesto pasta with sun-dried tomatoes and almonds, and frutti di mare. The food was solid with generous wine pours. The cannoli dessert had pudding-like filling—underwhelming. Their limoncello surprisingly can't match La Baula's.
Pro Tip | It’s cash only but there is an ATM nearby.
Green Papaya | I desperately wanted to dine outside on the swings, but they were full, so we sat inside—nice but less fun. Next time I'll wait for a swing. Tuna tacos, quesadilla, and margaritas were all exceptional.
MISCELLANEOUS
Beachfront massages are legit and affordable. Get one.
Take a dive trip with Pacific Coast Dive Center | "Dives were great - low difficulty and good visibility. I wish the coral was healthier, but you can't argue with multiple manta, shark, and octopus sightings."
I rarely get spa treatments during vacation, but my feet needed TLC after three weeks in Costa Rica. If you're in similar straits, visit Coco's.
If your swimwear could use a refresh, go to Morena for an amazing selection of separates. I bought a handful of things here and have no regrets.
For fresh fish or quality Italian deli items, try Walter's Fish and Cheeses - a 10-minute walk west of town. Their fresh seafood availability is inconsistent. We struck out multiple times. My advice: plan ahead and be flexible.
THE LOGISTICS
Travel Date | February 2021
Lodging |
Hotel Diria - Meh
Airbnb Casa Miel - Five stars
Transportation | Budget Rental Car
Pro Tips |
Visit the ATM. Cash is essential here.
Costa Rica has a reputation for roads bad enough to require 4WD, but Tamarindo has no such problems, nor does the drive there for that matter. There are some side roads in town that are a little rocky but you can still traverse them in an ordinary car no problem.
Unlike other parts of Costa Rica, in Tamarindo USD feels like the default currency. You may get change in Colones but USD is universally accepted. Credit cards work at most places we visited.
Street legal golf carts are popular for local transportation. Multiple rental locations exist, and if you're staying on the outskirts or want to travel in style, it's a fun option.
Tamarindo has some jungle elements but maintains primarily a beach vibe. For proper jungle, head toward Arenal volcano or Monteverde—both about 2.5 hours from either airport or 3.5 hours from Tamarindo.
To visit Playa Grande beach north of town for fewer crowds or advanced surfing, pay a local boatman a few dollars to cross the Tamarindo river separating the beaches. This saves the 30-minute drive around.
#195Postcards
