48 Hours in Kyoto
I’ve been to Kyoto twice now and absolutely love it. It’s the perfect blend of modern comfort and old world charm. On our second trip, we traveled with a friend who was there for the first time so we picked our top favorite things and had a great 48 in Kyoto!
DAY 1
Shinkansen to Kyoto | In preparation for the two hour ride to Kyoto definitely grab snacks from Lawson / 7 Eleven / Familymart. The weirder the snack, the better. And if you and your companions are of age, get a Chu-hi or two (Japanese White Claw basically) to wash it all down. The grapefruit ones are my favorite but you really can’t go wrong.
Fushimi Inari Shrine | Known for its thousands of torii gates that wind through the forest of Mount Inari. The entire climb took us less than two hours roundtrip and there are places to stop along the way if the climb gets too strenuous. It always starts out a bit congested (mainly because people stop to take photos) but further along the crowds dissipate. As you climb every level looks like the summit, luckily someone marked the last sign so you know for sure you’ve reached the top. The shrine is free to visit and is by far my favorite thing to do in Kyoto.
Pro Tips: Take photos closer to the top where there are fewer crowds - less annoying for you and everyone else. Treat yourself to a beer or an ice cream on your way down. You have to carry any trash you bring / create along the walk because you can only throw away trash at the store you bought from and there are no public trash cans along the path. .
Gion | Historic geisha district that offers traditional architecture and authentic old Kyoto atmosphere. If you’re headed back towards the city it’s a just few stops away and doesn’t take long.
Pro Tip: If you need a snack, Izakaya Rutibo is a good stop for a bite (wings, fries, octopus sashimi) and a drink. If you’re lucky, their adorable Shiba Inu will be there.
Sushi Ovino | Exceptional omakase at this intimate 10-seat setting that offers two seatings per night. Plus the sake pairings are unique and generous. It’s an acquired skill to be able to pick up and eat each piece of sushi in one bite without it breaking apart because the rice is warm. I love a challenge. We’ve been twice and I’m obsessed.
Cocktail Circuit | If you have the stamina after all that climbing all that such, there are heaps of good cocktail bars in Kyoto. Our choices:
Apotheca | Sleek little cocktail bar with a pharmacy theme
L'Escamoteur | ‘Circus noir’ vibe that offers tasty cocktails and a magic trick
Pro Tip: Buy shots for the bartenders and they make a whole production out of it.Bees Knees | Cocktails are fine but nothing special. The best thing about this place was the Japanese snack option that offers bags of different kinds of Japanese chips
Scotch and Branch | Enter through the London phone booth down an alley; cocktails are inventive and staff is super friendly
DAY 2
Kinkaku-Ji | This golden temple was designed using three distinct architectural styles. The best photo is right when you walk in so take a moment and snap your pics. As you follow the circuit around the pavilion be sure to try your luck throwing a coin in the cup. All in all this visit takes maybe 30 minutes.
Pro Tip: For any one who’s like me and is sensitive to dairy, especially because there isn’t much of it to be had in Japan. I grabbed a matcha/vanilla soft serve cone with gold flakes because they’re delicious. It wasn’t the best idea for two reasons: 1. It’s frowned upon to eat while you’re walking; and, 2. We hadn’t had much dairy that week so suddenly eating a vanilla ice cream cone was aggressive and I learned that lesson the hard way about 30 minutes later. Luckily the Japanese have mastered the art of a clean and comfortable bathroom. That said I would still get the ice cream.
Bamboo Forest | The forest is serene and majestic but it can get pretty crowded so arrive early to minimize the crowds. There’s a short walk up to an overlook that offer nice views but it’s not a must. I love coming here and it’s largely shaded which can be a nice break during the summer months.
Pro Tip: Consider taking the rickshaw tour, which seems to give access to parts of the forest that are closed off to the tourists on foot. I don’t know how those guys pull the rickshaws when it’s so hot but it looks like an incredibly effective workout if you want a side hustle where you get paid to get fit.
Nishiki Market | This market truly has it all: food stalls (sushi, crab, giant oysters, mochi, etc.), beers, souvenirs, clothes, animal cafes, chef’s knives, but most importantly - tons of gachapon machines to buy incredibly detailed mini-versions of anything you can think of. I had to look up what these machines were called and the definition is excellent: The name gachapon is a combination of two Japanese onomatopoeias: gacha, which refers to the sound of a crank being turned; and pon, which refers to something appearing magically.
Back to the Shinkansen and another snack haul for our ride home.
HONORABLE MENTIONS FOR ADDITIONAL DAYS
Toji Temple Market | If it’s open while you’re there you must go. The market is enormous and you can find anything here: art, home goods, souvenirs, etc. I bought a painting and some wooden soup spoons. The food here is also great. Lots of local treats to try.
Pro Tip: Bring cash. Also getting a taxi to leave the market is a serious undertaking and can take a while, so be patient.
To. | Exceptional Japanese Italian fusion. Food is positively excellent and the staff is super friendly.
Pro Tip: Make reservations in advance. Also, if for some reason you need to do laundry there’s a place right near here that is basically set it and forget it. Just throw your clothes in, make your selections, and add your money and the machine does the washing, drying and detergents/fabric softener all for you. Set your phone timer and come back after dinner to your fresh laundry.
THE LOGISTICS
Travel Date | May 2023 and September 2024
Lodging |
Ace Hotel Kyoto
Prime location and only one block from a subway station
Rooms are a comfortable size for two people, offer robes and slippers, and the shower/tub “room” is luxurious for keeping in the steam. Bonus: record players and curated vinyl in every room!
Excellent breakfast with covered outdoor courtyard seating
Stumptown Coffee in lobby
Pio Piko for tasty drinks and evening entertainment
Attached to a small shopping center with local shops including Dig the Line, which offers a diverse beer selection and outdoor seating
Transportation |
JR Express from Osaka (first time we visited)
Shinkansen from Tokyo (second time we visited)
Metro is clean and efficient
Bus is also easy but the one time we rode the bus it was at max capacity and that capacity was made up of middle school boys so let’s just say the smell and the duration made this a rather undesirable experience that I probably won’t replicate
Taxis are affordable and convenient
#195Postcards
