Tokyo Travel Guide: Neighborhood Highlights

Konnichiwa from Tokyo!

This was my third visit to Japan and this time I was on my own to explore most days so it was a bit of a different experience for me since we all know that I prefer to have a buddy. Luckily, I stayed at The Prince Gallery Tokyo again, which made for a familiar home base. While it attracts international tourists, its convenience and comfort make it a great option, especially if you’re navigating the city solo like I was.

Harajuku – Shopping, Shrines, and Sensory Overload

Start at Omote-sando for familiar international brands and impressive architecture, comparable to Paris’s Champs-Élysées or Chicago’s Magnificent Mile.

Visit Takeshita Street for eclectic shops and streetwear boutiques as well as quirky experiences like animal cafes; Laforet for a wide variety of vintage (such as Meow Vintage which had a pair of Girbaud jeans that were just like ones I had in junior high but they didn’t have my size), pop ups and local brands; or, Cat Street for trendy, fashion stores.
Pro Tip | If you decide to visit an animal cafe, please be aware that not all of the animals are living their best lives there. We visited an otter cafe and the otters seemed distressed. There was, however, a very sweet and happy hedgehog there that I named Pierre, who I nearly pocketed.

Lunch | Ore-ryo Gyoza (Meiji Jingumae) – Order the gyozas, fried rice, and shrimp bao. OR try Okonomiyaki at Yai Yai. Either way - yum.

After lunch I recommend that to walk off your meal by visiting the Meiji Shrine in Yoyogi Park. It’s a must.

Meguro & Ebisu & Daikanyama & Shibuya – A River Walk and an Iconic Crosswalk

Start the day with a relaxing walk along the Meguro River. There are boutiques and restaurants tucked away all along the route so don’t be afraid to wander and explore. I like Laruta and Frapbois.

Swing by & Spirits. This tiny bar and bottle shop has a huge variety of local spirits and they make an excellent cocktail. Don’t be afraid to pop in for a midday drink.

Lunch | Ramen lunch Afuri. Order at the machine and sit at the counter. Don’t overthink it.

In typical fashion I got on the wrong subway so I took the opportunity to visit neighboring Daikanyama; it’s considered Tokyo’s “Brooklyn” and is filled with vintage shops, cafes and brunch spots. It’s also home to Spring Valley Brewery which is a great stop for a flight and a bite.

End your day with a hectic walk across Shibuya Scramble - Shibuya’s infamous intersection. Visit Magnet 109 and for ¥1800 you can get a beer and panoramic views of the famous crossing.

Dinner | Stay in Shibuya and do the tasting menu at Yakitori Tsukada Shibuya. Def try the raw chicken. OR if you’re ok with slow service and great drinks, head over to Bar Triad in the Ebisu neighborhood followed by great service and delicious food at Soregashi. I think four of us ordered everything on the menu.

And while you’re in Shibuya def visit SG Club, or it’s sister bar Bellwood, for creative cocktails and a fun vibe.

Ueno – Culture and History

Spend the day in Ueno Park: home to five museums, multiple shrines, and Tokyo’s oldest temple, Kiyomizu Kannon. Visit the Tokyo National Museum for fascinating exhibits, including a mask collection and hand-painted wildlife catalogs. Don’t miss the gardens behind the museum for some sunshine and tranquility.

Post-museum, grab a vanilla/matcha swirl cone before visiting these shrines:

• Ueno Toshogu Shrine | Dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu who founded the Tokugawa Shogunate that brought peace to Japan for 265 years. Seems like he deserves a shrine for that. I’m in favor.

• Hanazono Inari-Jinja Shrine | I’m a sucker for Torii gates.

• Ueno Daibutsu | Spot the remaining face of this historic Buddha. The operating hours are specific and I missed out because the kannushi (I think that’s what he’s called - the person who maintains the shrine) decided to lock the gate eight minutes early despite seeing me climbing the stairs. I guess even kannushi have places to be.

• Shinobazunoike Beten-do Temple | On an island surrounded by lotus flowers and enshrines one of the Seven Gods of Good Fortune

Lunch | Head to the Ameyoko Shopping District and choose any yakitori spot packed with locals—order things like chicken hearts, thighs, and spicy cucumbers and an Asahi beer. Afterwards, wander about and load up on souvenirs from the wide variety of vendors.

Dinner | Ameyoko Shopping District is also great for dinner. This outdoor food market has a ton of food and drink options. Be brave. Try it all. You’ll know you’ve found it when you see the rows of red lanterns overhead.

Enjoy a nightcap at Virtù at The Four Seasons for local twists on classic cocktails and stellar hospitality.

Tomigaya – Coffee Shops and Local Finds

Start with a late morning walk through Tomigaya, Shibuya’s quiet neighbor. I say go later in the morning because, other than coffee shops, things don’t open until around 11am. Speaking of coffee, there are a million great options (Camelback and Beasty are must-tries). And once you’re properly caffeinated it’s time to hit the boutique shops (Pivoine, Homspun, T-Board, Grapevine, Shibuya Publishing & Booksellers and Heckel, to name a few) for local finds.

Tonkatsu Lunch | The restaurant name is in Japanese and I can’t find a location for it on the map but it’s across from the Heckel store so it should be easy to spot. Below is a photo in case you want to go. It was delicious.

Tonkatsu restaurant in Tomigaya

Next head to Don Quijote for an overwhelming shopping experience. It’s chaotic in the best way. From skincare to unusual Japanese snacks, they have it all.

After purchasing a bagful of snacks (and sheet masks guaranteed to deliver eternal youth) take the long way home through Akihabra - the neighborhood that’s known for its abundance of anime, claw machines, electronics shops and maid cafes. Nerd paradise.

Dinner | After a long day of walking there is nothing better than stocking up on snacks and drinks (or even a full meal) made up of local delicacies at Lawson, 7-Eleven or FamilyMart for dinner and eating in bed back at the hotel. These convince stores are all over the city so you can’t miss one if you’re out and getting peckish.

Roppongi and Relaxation

Do yourself a favor and book the signature facial at Mocci. Japanese skincare is next level it was honestly one of the best facials I have ever had.

Lunch | After your facial, head around the corner and treat your younger-looking self to Miyako. Best Katsu I had the whole trip.

Wander through Mori Garden and Roppongi Hills Mall, but skip the area if you’re seeking more character-filled neighborhoods. Hikawa Shrine isn’t too far and adding a flavor of authenticity to the neighborhood.

Dinner | Pizza at Pizzeria da Peppe Napoli Sta’ Ca” is super authentic and very delicious. A great option if you need a break from Japanese cuisine. Limoncellos for all!

Or Shabuzen Roppongi for Shabu Shabu. If I’m being honest I do not like Shabu Shabu BUT if you want to try it, this is a great place to do it. Plus they offer bottomless sake and beers.

Bar Centifolia | OVERRATED. Cover charge is pricey. Free champs to start “because of our wait”. Fine. Servers are insincere and have the same speech for every table. Drinks come with a small lamp so you can have a well-lit instagram post for your meh overpriced drink.

Memento Mori | It’s fine here. Nothing special. The focus is cacao which really isn’t my taste, BUT, it’s situated in a sprawling office building, and I came across a small network of bars and restaurants inside - like a little village - that would be perfect if you wanted to stop in for snacks and drinks if nobody could agree on what they wanted. Also this building has nice toilets if you find that you need to make a pit stop.

Asakusa – Temples, Shopping, and Skylines

Ride to the end of the Ginza line and head to Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate). Wander through Nakamise Shopping Street until you reach Sensoji Temple, Tokyo’s oldest temple. Try your luck with the Omikuji sticks and see if you get a good fortune.

Nakamise hosts more than 90 stalls is a great place to buy quirky local souvenirs. Two of my faves are Edo Toys Nakamise Sukeroku to buy some miniature, but elaborate, toys from the Edo period and Izumiya Honten for an incredible assortment of rice crackers and other snacks.

Lunch | The shopping are also houses loads of food options. Sample a marinated cucumber on a stick, order some conveyor belt sushi, and enjoy a strawberry mochi for dessert. Honestly no matter what you choose is going to be delicious.

Walk along the Sumida River and head to Tokyo Skytree for city views. There are river cruises available that might be cool. I just couldn’t commit.

At the Skytree I chose the ticket option for the second highest viewing deck because the views are very similar. There are three floors available with that ticket. The floor the elevator opens to has a bar and if you’re lucky, the mascot will be there. If you want it a little less crowded, take the escalator down to the floor below.

Akasaka

Hie-jinja Shrine | Set back from the hustle and bustle of the busy roads, visitors come to this charming little temple to wish for a happy marriage. A statue of a pair of monkeys is where you can make your offering.

Dinner | Wow. Wow. Wow. You definitely need a reservation to get into Sprout. We had the concierge make ours because the staff doesn’t speak English. Use Google Translate to order, and you’ll be rewarded with fresh, creative, seasonal dishes, or Kamiyama is a great option for an omakase dinner—don't worry if you can't identify everything on your plate; every bite is worth it. Plus a little sake will put you to bed for a great night of sleep.

Dinner | At Ryotei Asada the private room kaiseki is the way to go. We required a lot of instruction about what we were eating and how to eat it properly, but everything was delicious, and everyone was supportive and encouraging.

Gaslight Kasumigaseki | Hidden down a set of stairs in what looks like an office building is this former members’ club turned elegant cocktail bar. Sit at the bar if you can and order the dry martini, or have your Google translate since there seemed to be no menu.

Shinkjuku

Golden Gai is SO much fun. The small streets are lined with tiny bars (think like 6-10 people) and are a mix of ground-level or second floor locations. It can get really busy here so it’s up to you if you want to be choosy. If you peek in and see open seats you may want to jump on them. BUT because the bars are small, the vibe changes based on the clientele, so what may look a bit lame at first can liven up as people come and go. Also, it can get really warm in these tiny bars. You’ve been warned.
Pro Tip | It can be really hard to get a taxi near here and you may have to walk awhile before you can find one.

Or if you’re looking for something more civilized, go to the Park Hyatt Bar (aka the Lost in Translation bar). Great band. Great martinis. Great views. Can’t miss. Double check that they have reopened as they were recently closed for maintenance. [ I would add that I don’t know what they changed so it may no longer look like it did in the movie]

Ginza

Tsukiji Fish Market - Get up early and check out this working fish market. It’s incredible to witness all the hustle and bustle of the fish mongers. Plus you can buy straight from the source! Surrounding the fish market are some delicious little restaurants. Noodles for breakfast? Absolutely.
Pro Tip | If you love an early morning wake up, head to see the tuna auctions - there’s nothing like it. But plan your transit properly to ensure your train/bus runs at that hour. The tuna auction waits for no one!

Lunch | Head to Tokyo Aburagumi Shorten Ginza - this reliable chain offers for gyoza, soba noodles and ice cold Yebisu beers, or try conveyor belt sushi at Kaitenzushi Nemuro Hanamaru Ginza. The wait can be long, but it’s worth it to get to try some things that maybe you’d be shy to commit to in a restaurant but can safely taste test here. Maybe pass the time by enjoying a Bloody Mary at Gray Room?
Pro Tip | Keep your plates as you finish each item. They use those to count up your total bill at the end.

The Mixology Salon | Located in the Ginza Six shopping mall, which was the first department store in Tokyo. Try the Signature Teas Cocktails Course and you’ll completely forget you’re in the mall. The mall is also a decent walkabout. There’s even a rooftop garden!

Mixology Heritage | Situated among a handful of shops and restaurants in the underpass of the train lines this spot feels like a UK drawing room. I ordered a Corpse Reviver #2 and have no regrets.
Pro Tip | Explore the other shops, bars and restaurants along this stretch of corridor.

Old Imperial Bar | Order a Mt. Fuji, their signature cocktail, and explore artifacts from the original Frank Lloyd Wright designed bar and hotel.

Chiyoda City (Imperial Palace)

Start at the Inui-mon Gate and wander through at your leisure. Enjoy a tour of the palace or simply tour the gardens and enjoy reprieve from the chaos of the city.
Pro Tip | Check opening times. one Friday each month. And it just so happened to be one of those Fridays.

Bonus — Baseball Games and

Tokyo boasts two baseball teams. We opted to see the Tokyo Swallows at Meiji Jingu Stadium because the stadium was closer to our hotel. This was so much fun. It is everything I love about going to an American baseball game meshed with cute Japanese touches and an enormous food selection. Remember to buy a tiny umbrella to join the fan festivities!
Pro Tips | Check dates and times for both teams. You can easily buy tickets online.

When in doubt, wander! Tokyo’s charm lies in its unexpected quirks. You cannot go wrong!

THE LOGISTICS 

Travel Date | May 2023 and September 2024

Flight | MEL to NRT on Qantas

Lodging |

• Stay at The Prince Gallery Tokyo for a convenient home base.

  • Room - AMAZING. We had a corner room this time: blackout curtains that have an automatic open and close feature so you can be greeted each morning with city views; the bed is big and luxious; the shower is next level as it’s in it’s own room with a tub and a seat and views of the city; the toilet greets you each time you enter the WC; and the amenities cover you no matter what you forget - brush, toothbrush, face wash and face lotion, make up removed, you name it.

  • Gym has everything you could need, including towels and bottled water

  • Breakfast - a mix of east and west - great variety and quality

  • Lobby bar - Sky Gallery Lounge Levita - great cocktails, very swanky vibe, heavy snacks available.Def get the dirty vodka martini obvi.

  • Spa - Nice. Very simple. Very small. They didn’t offer body lotion. Weirdness. And it’s naked. They had great views. Not of the name people. Views of the city.

Transportation |

• Public Transit | Everything is clearly marked, so it is easy to navigate through the trains / train stations. It’s very safe, clean and orderly.
  Pro Tip | Pay attention to the Google Maps directions with the subway/trains. Not only does it give you what exit number to go out of but also which car to get on for easiest exit.

  • We took the Skyliner from Narita to Ueno Station. It was super easy and relaxing. A great way to get into the city if you don’t want to spend a ton of money on taxis.

  • Subway within the city

• Taxis are easy and plentiful but traffic can be tough. Trains are just the cheaper faster way to go IMO.

• TONS OF WALKING

Pro Tips |

• Buy an Ubigi eSim online. I paid 17€ for 10gb and it got me through two weeks. BUT I couldn’t use my phone number for phone calls using this option so if you need to be able to make or receive phone calls you may need to toggle between your home data plan and the Ubigi eSim.

• Fill this out before you land and don't close the page because they want the QR codes…but if you don’t that’s fine, they’ll also accept the paper forms.

• It’s easy to buy the SUICA equivalent train cards in the machines at most stations but it's cash only. Luckily there are usually ATMs nearby. OR you can download the app to your phone which is even easier and then you can reload your card using a credit card.

• Although there is an option to set up an online account for the Shinkansen, using the QR code and passcode at the ticket machines was brutal. I recommend using a credit card that has a pin, that worked best for us.

• It’s a solid mix of cards and cash here so it’s a good idea to have cash on you at all times, although many places take credit, even Amex.

• There are rarely trash cans so plan to carry your trash for a bit

• If you plan to do any shopping remember to bring your passport and your physical credit card. I have had enough instances when they required a passport and I couldn’t buy anything

• When trying on clothes remember to remove your shoes before entering the fitting room or standing on the fitting room carpet

• ClassPass is now in Tokyo! Definitely worth a try. The Japanese are super welcoming so even if you don’t understand the language, many instructors spoke English or were very demonstrative and attentive so that I could follow the classes. I took a yoga class and a spin class while I was visiting and really enjoyed both. I started the day with a workout at Cyclebar and it was so much fun! Great music, high energy and even if you don’t understand Japanese or if you’ve never done spin before you can definitely follow along. They also have classes as short as 20 minutes if you’re feeling pressed for time!

• If for some reason you need to do laundry in the city, be sure that you have plenty of ¥100 coins.

• Elevator doors are out to kill you. It’s humiliating.

#195Postcards