Trogir, Croatia: UNESCO Charm With Fewer Crowds
This stunning UNESCO World Heritage old town has become our go-to home base in Croatia. We've stayed twice now because Trogir perfectly balances medieval charm with modern amenities, plus you can reach Split, Šolta, Brač, or Hvar for day trips. I recommend 2-3 days here to allow for proper exploration of the town and to do at least one day trip to the islands.
TO DO
Wander the Old Town | UNESCO-listed medieval streets that wind for days. Small enough to explore in a day but packed with history and so many charming boutiques, bars, and restaurants that you’ll want to spend more. Also, the markets are amazing for fresh fish and produce.
Pro Tip | Head to the fish market for fresh sea bass and try your hand at ceviche or grilling back at your Airbnb.
Boat Day Trip | With a group of six, we rented a boat for the day and headed to Šolta. Šolta is quieter than Vis or Hvar, but with equal charm. Check out the port village of Maslinica to see what I mean. The scenery is stunning and the salty water makes floating effortless. Our captain, Mario, took us to a nice beach bar for frozen drinks (the day was SO hot) and for a great lunch at Turanj. Octopus salad, Dalmatian meats and cheeses, spicy pizzas and great Greek salad.
Our last stop of the day was in Nečujam Bay, features a shipwreck accessible for snorkeling (it's only about 1 meter below the surface). If you’re lucky (and we were!) the bar boat will come by serving up mojitos and caipirinhas. What a genius idea! If only I could drive a boat or make a proper cocktail…
Artistic shot of the Croatian flag in front of City Loggia
Grabbing To-Go cocktails at SV Domnic
Wandering the cobblestone streets of Trogir
Striking a pose in the marina
The North Gate (Sjeverna Vrata)
Charming window
TO EAT
Calebotta | Probably the best restaurant in Trogir. Sit outside to people watch and share the garlic bread with goat cheese. Their risotto is excellent and worth the slightly higher prices.
Frankie | Fantastic waterfront location. Order everything: fish of the day (it's massive), black risotto, oysters, and Greek salad. Perfect for lingering over dinner.
Restoran Buta | Excellent dinner options. Cocktail list is obscene with Blow Job shots and Buttery Nipples. Good fun had by all.
Bubalus Burger Bar | Holy shit, that's a good burger. Cash only, but so worth it.
Barba | Ordered pizzas for pickup and holy hell was that a long wait. The pizzas were great go before you’re hungry just to be safe.
Kristian Pizza | Great pizza and jugs of wine. Cheap and cheerful. Need I say more?
Alka Restaurant | More authentic Croatian fare, slightly upscale but still laid-back. Right next to Kristian Pizza.
Vanjaka | Really good restaurant with outdoor seating next to one of the churches. Pricier but reasonable for the quality.
TO DRINK
Staying at an Airbnb and want to grab wine or beer to bring home? There are two great options:
The Drink Shop | I love this perfect little spot for wine and beer.
Delicium Nostrum | Good wine selection upstairs with a knowledgeable owner who can guide your choices.
There are a handful of nice waterfront bars, but nothing memorable other than SV Domnic aka To-Go Cocktails which offers a wide variety of drinks to keep you hydrated on your wander through town. Very civilized.
THE LOGISTICS
Travel Date | June 2020 / 2021
Accommodations |
Airbnb | I think you get more bang for your buck here with an Airbnb. Especially if you’re with four or more. We rented a house with a pool, a grill, and a rooftop and had an amazing time. Downside: someone had dogs on their porch and they barked all night long. To the point where we googled “can dogs lose their voices”. They cannot.
Brown Beach House | The fanciest option in town with an excellent pool deck. Walking distance to old town but blissfully away from crowds. Full transparency - I have never stayed here but I’ve always wanted to. Someday…
Transportation | Rental Car
Pro Tips |
Easy day trips from Trogir
Split | IMO you only need a day to see it, really. Some nice hikes, restaurants and bars. I prefer Trogir.
Šolta, Brač, and Hvar are all reachable by boat and all are worth a visit
Šibenik - I haven’t been but it’s supposed to be worth seeing
Krka National Park | Also haven’t been but it’s apparently famous for its waterfalls
Definitely carry small bills here
If you’re planning a day out on a boat, buy floats before you go. You'll want them in that salty water.
The narrow roads require patience and, if possible, a small car
#195Postcards
