Zagreb, Croatia: The Gateway to Central Europe
Pozdrav iz Zagreba, Croatia!
Perfect jumping-off point for road trips to Slovenia (Ljubljana is about 2 hours), Austria, northern Italy, and other Croatian destinations. In this case we opted to spend a few days exploring Zagreb before taking the train to Ljubljana, Slovenia.
Above you can see the yellow building - Croatian National Theater - which we enjoyed a view of while we sipped beers at Kavkaz.
Ok if you’re planning a trip to Zagreb…
You know I love gpsmycity.com, so we took the suggestions from the two introductory walking tours ( Upper Town and Lower Town) and split them across two days. You could definitely do them both in one day if you’re pressed for time and don’t linger too long at any of the sights.
We mashed up the order of sites a bit.
Arrival Day
We arrived late in the afternoon so I’m not counting this as a whole day. We basically unpacked, had a drink in the lounge and then headed out for dinner. Our first option - Kai Street Food - was full so we made a reso for the next night and headed over to our backup option: Roguemarin. We both ordered the Katsu salad bowl. It was fine. Paired our bowls with a bottle of Malvasia, which was overkill since the food came out 3 minutes after we ordered it. This is the kind of place I would go occasionally if I lived in Zagreb but when you’re visiting I think you can do better.
Day 1
Not that anyone is asking, but our vacation mornings always start the same way: Wake up; Make coffee in the room; Play the New York Times Spelling Bee; Go to the gym; Breakfast at the hotel (if it’s included in the room rate); Get ready and head out by 11:30. Now that you’re up to speed on how we spend our mornings, here’s how we spent our first day in Zagreb.
Ban Jelačić Square | Typical European square. You’ll walk through it on your way to many sights so it’s easy to swing through. You’ll know you’re there when you see the statue of Josip Jelacic on his horse. Fun fact: It was removed in 1947 under Communist rule, but was reinstalled in 1990.
Zagreb Funicular | We took the stairs instead of taking the two-minute ride. There’s your cardio for the day.
Lotršcak Tower | At the top of the stairs, or the funicular, is the the tower. You can go up the Belvedere for a view of the city. We didn’t do this because if you walk 2 minutes down the road, the view from the Love Rails is already pretty great.
Street view of Saint Mark’s Church and Square
Past the Museum of Broken Relationships is Saint Mark's Church and Square - The square here is closed off but you can still get close enough to appreciate the roof tiles that bear the coats of arms of Zagreb and the Triune Kingdom of Croatia.
Head right down the hill to the Kamenita Vrata (The Stone Gate) - Zagreb used to be a walled city and the only way in was through fortified gates like this one. Very cool to walk through. Bonus: there’s a little church / shrine inside.
Weave your way down to Tkalčićeva Street - This street initially served as a border between the settlements of Kaptol and Gradec (the upper and lower halves of the city, respectively) . Now it’s a mainly pedestrian area with bars, restaurants and shops all along. Pick up some Pelinkovac while you’re there. It’s bitter and herbal, and serves as an aperitif or digestif.
Dolac Market | Typical farmer’s market. Grab fruits to snack on, or if you prefer a sit down option - Broom44 looked like a popular spot to watch the market bustle or Burek | since 1967 is supposed to be the best Burek in the city. It was sold out when we got there so I think you might have to get there early.
Dolac Market closing up for the day
We walked back to the hotel to drop off somethings and then grabbed a drink at Kavkaz to enjoy some final moments of sunshine before heading over to Ficlek for lunch. It promptly started raining as we sat down to eat. Luckily we had moved indoors. Zagreb is the land of the high-top tables. Everywhere you go it’s all high tops and stools. Anywho, we ordered Faširanci (spiced meat patties) and Štrukle (cottage cheese and sour cream pastry dish) with a pitcher of the house red. All very good. Very traditional. VERY heavy. We immediately went home for a nap.
Post-nap we headed to the lounge for a drink before our 7pm dinner reservation at Kai Street Food. It was absolutely pouring out so I was thankful that the walk was short. Just like the night before, the menu here is Asian Fusion. We ordered the pulled pork bao and tuna tartar flatbread. All pretty tasty and the place is busy and vibey. Very easy dinner option if you want something cheap, cheerful and quick.
On our way home we stopped at Bela Caffé in the Amadria Park Hotel for a nightcap. Apparently the building used to be a bank and if you’re interested you can tour the hotel. We did not. There’s also a vault and they seem to be missing a trick by not using it as the setting for the bar. Either way, there is a beatiful sitting area and we’re the only people there. Maybe because of the driving rain outside. Cocktails are great, but definitely stick to the menu and only order the classic cocktails. We tried to get a dirty martini. It was not a success. This could also be a great place to stay if you prefer local boutique hotels.
Day 2
After our morning routine, we were off to explore more. The day was incredibly windy so our sightseeing stamina was low but we managed to see a few things of note:
A rainy day is the perfect time to go to a museum, and the Museum of Broken Relationships is only a 20 minute walk from the Sheraton. I really enjoyed this. The museum is easy to navigate with exhibits ranging from funny to heartbreaking. It took about an hour to do the whole thing. Plus there’s a nice cafe there if you need to stop and discuss all that you’ve seen over a beverage.
Pro Tips | The Museum of Hangovers and the Video Game History Museum both look like good rainy day activities.
View of the Croatian State Archives building
In effort to see more of the Lower Town, we walked down to the Croatian State Archives. This is a UNESCO-recognized Art Nouveau building that houses Zagreb’s most important documents and if I had done even the tiniest bit of research I would have known that there are guided tours Monday through Friday at 1:00 and 2:00 PM and I would have been first in line. BUT I did not do any research so I missed out. Don’t make the same mistake.
Botanical Garden | While the garden looked lovely, the weather was so windy and rain was on the way so we skipped this. Had the weather been better, I think it would have been worth the price of admission.
For another brief respite from the rain we stopped at Esplanade 1925 for some high-end cocktails and a live piano serenade.
Our last dinner in Zagreb was at Pod Zidom Bistro. Wow, wow, wow. We had a charming window table and bottle of local red. I had a rabbit lasagna that brings a tear to my eye. A fantastic last supper.
THE LOGISTICS
Travel Date | March 2024
Flights | AMS > ZAG on KLM
Accommodations |
Amadria Park Hotel | We didn’t stay here but it looked swanky and I would def consider it for our next visit.
Sheraton Zagreb Hotel | Stayed here and it was really nice.
Room | They upgraded us to a suite. The hotel was recently renovated so the room had a few missing odds and ends but overall a great room.
Gym | It was like what I imagine a cross fit gym to be like. Mats on the floor. Machines and weights all over the place. No towels. There is a fridge in the middle of the room that is chained shut but full of ice cold waters. That said, they had everything you could want and they offer towels at the spa so you don’t have to lie directly on the floor mats.
Lounge | Very chill; maybe too chill; food was rather sparse so you can’t actually eat a meal here but it’s good for a snack and a drink
Lobby Bar | They make a great dirty vodka martini. Sometimes.
Pro Tip |
Weather in March was hit and miss. One day was warm and sunny t-shirt weather, the next was rainy and windy. Definitely check the forecast and pack layers and a raincoat or umbrella.
#195Postcards
