Canal

This site is essentially an archive of everything I wish I'd known before embarking on my travels.

My aim is simple: to offer valuable insights that will save you precious time and hassle when mapping out your next adventure.

Enjoy!

First Visit to Istanbul? My Top Turkey Tips

First Visit to Istanbul? My Top Turkey Tips

İstanbul'dan merhaba! (Hello from Istanbul!)

I really enjoyed our visit here. A vibrant city and the uniqueness of straddling Europe and Asia is found throughout the culture. However, there are a few things I wish I had known before I went, so I’m sharing them here first.

Location, Location, Location | Traffic is a nightmare. This is the number one issue in the city and shapes everything how you move around (more on that below). Taxis will rip you off, Uber technically exists but won’t save you from the traffic, and public transit can be complex in such a sprawling city. So location matters here maybe more than anywhere else I’ve been. Choose wisely.

Accommodation | Select your home base according to what you plan to do because it’s best to walk to avoid unnecessary cost and disruption. For my next visit I would stay at either the JW Marriott Bosphorus or the Peninsula in the Karaköy neighborhood. That area is close to everything we were interested in doing, but just slightly tucked away. I recommend a higher end hotel in Istanbul because I definitely needed a reliable respite from the chaos of the city. It’s also good bang for your buck considering the price of five star hotels in other major cities.

Visa | It’s worth noting Turkey dropped the e-visa requirement for a bunch of nationalities in 2026, including the US, Australia, UK, and Canada, so most of us can now enter visa-free for up to 90 days. However, always check your specific requirement at evisa.gov.tr before you fly. Either way, your passport needs at least 6 months' validity from your entry date.

Cash is King | Having cash will save you unnecessary hassle in the markets, buying smaller things at shops, or as a negotiating strategy with a taxi driver. Turkey’s currency is the Turkish Lira and you can get these at any ATM in the city. Remember to keep an eye on ATM fees (if you can find ones that don’t charge you) and if there are fees, always choose the local currency because your bank will likely offer more favorable exchange rates.

Getting Around | Given that traffic is a ‘mare, you have to consider your options:

#1 Walking - Free of charge, stop when you want, get your steps in - what’s not to love? The city is very spread out though, so be sure you’ve got shoes that can go for miles and lots of stopping options along the way. Or a desperate need for an ice cold Efes (or Tuborg - I have no dog in this fight).

#2 Public Transit - Ferry is my favorite form of transport here, but the collective network of metro, tram, bus, and ferry is extensive. Get a transit card Istanbulkart if you plan to use public transit most days. You can purchase and top it up at the airport or other transit stations, and you can use one card for multiple travelers. Downside: The city is sprawling so consider the effort of managing transfers and timing.

#3 Taxis - They are everywhere but we found that oftentimes the driver doesn’t want to run the meter but instead quoted us 2x the price. If you don’t have cash, you have no leverage, so keep some on hand. Uber technically exists but is still matched to licensed taxi drivers so reliability and pricing are inconsistent and it won’t save you from the traffic. Locals use BiTaksi.

Dress Code | While the city doesn’t require modest dress, the mosques and other religious sites will. Usually, attire is offered upon entry but you can’t always count on that so knees and shoulders covered is a solid way to go to be ready for anything.

Food Tour is a Must | I recommend this for your first day because this gives you a guided sense of where everything is and you can mark things you see / pass that you want to come back to in subsequent days. Also if you eat something you love and want more of. We did the "Taste of Two Continents" through https://yummyistanbul.com and I can’t recommend it enough. The group was also lovely and we befriended a couple from Canada that we hung out with for the remainder of the day.
Highlight: Find the stuffed mussels in one of the street carts, very unique.

All that said, I would consider my visit based around where things are and organize my days accordingly.

What To Do/Eat/Drink | Organized by Neighborhood

Sultanahmet

  • Hagia Sophia | Byzantine church turned mosque turned museum turned mosque again, book timed tickets ahead to skip the line

  • Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque) | Free entry, dress code applies (shoulders and knees covered, headscarf for women)

    • The gardens between Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Square) are worth a visit for one of the best photo spots in the city

      Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) | Historic covered market, 4,000+ shops, closed Sundays, easy walk from here

  • Kybele Hotel Bar | Has a really nice outdoor terrace kind of bar setup, good prices

  • Loti Roof Lounge | Nice view, nice restaurant

Eminönü (more a daytime stop than a night out)

  • Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı / Egyptian Bazaar) | Smaller, food-focused, a few minutes' walk from Sultanahmet

  • Viyana Kahvesi, Sirkeci | Meeting point for our food tour (Yummy Istanbul's Taste of Two Continents)

  • Eminönü ferry docks | Departure point for ferries across the Bosphorus to Kadıköy and the Asian side, worth knowing even outside a food tour

Karaköy

  • Galata Tower | Panoramic rooftop views, short uphill walk from the Karaköy waterfront

  • Neolokal | We didn't make it but supposed to be a nice restaurant, good rooftop

  • Karaköy Lokantası | Local, approachably upscale

  • Mürver Restaurant | Similar to above [Karaköy Lokantası] - local, approachably upscale, but with a rooftop

  • The Populist – Galataport location | Good stop for a beer

Beyoğlu

  • Asmalımescit pocket:

    • Flekk | Cocktail bar, very trendy

    • Ziba | Tucked away beer pub, very chill, quiet when we went

    • Moretenders' Cocktail Crib & Sushi | Nice vibe

    • Balkon | Chill rooftop place with casual food, can also just go for drinks

    • Asmalı Cavit | We didn't make it here but very well rated for authentic cuisine

  • Tomtom:

    • Nicole | Supposed to be a very nice rooftop restaurant

    • Mikla | Set in the Marmara Per Hotel, an exceptional fine dining set menu, expensive by Istanbul standards but inexpensive for the quality. Book well in advance.

  • Near Taksim:

    • Novas Hagiasophia | Upscale(ish) local, can be busy

Cihangir (Beyoğlu)

  • Geyik | Trendy little cocktail spot

Beşiktaş

  • Craft Beer Lab | Good selection of beer, nothing special

  • Vogue Restaurant & Bar | We never made it but supposedly quite upscale, trendy

Şişli

  • Mitra Ocakbaşı | Local little place, they were very nice, great prices

  • The Populist – original Bomonti location | Nice rooftop beer garden

  • Mahir Lokantası | Recommended but didn’t go

Ortaköy

  • Feriye Lokantası | Recommended but didn’t go

Follow the tips above. Manage your logistics by neighborhood. You’ll have a blast!

THE LOGISTICS 

My Travel Date | May 2022

Lodging | Park Hyatt (fine but the location wasn’t ideal)

Pro Tips |

  • Check if you need a visa

  • Buy your Istanbulkart

  • Download BiTaksi

  • Book Mikla well in advance

#195Postcards

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