Although Costa Rica has been on my list for ages, I wouldn't normally fly 11 hours from Europe to Central America for vacation. But with few places open for travel even with vaccination or Covid tests, we took the plunge. We absolutely loved it and I can't wait to explore more of this beautiful country.

Our two-week trip extended to three weeks due to changing Covid testing requirements for returning to the Netherlands. We moved between hotels and Airbnbs, jungle and beach, with stops in:

Liberia > Playa Conchal > Playa Grande > Arenal > Tamarindo > Los Sueños.

We arrived late into Liberia to meet friends from Chicago and stayed one night at the Hilton Garden Inn near the airport. It exceeded our expectations! Breakfast was slow but tasty. The gym was small but clean with all basics. Rooms were functional. Bonus #1: Budget will pick you up from the hotel for your rental car. Bonus #2: Good lobby shops for necessities. Bonus #3: BREWERIES!

Three breweries within walking distance! Captain J Match, Papagayo and Numu. If you can't stop in, buy some beer to bring with you. While there are many local beers, they're mainly available at breweries. Regular bars, even at hotels, typically serve only international brands like Corona and Heineken.

After loading up on local beers, we drove about an hour to the Westin to enjoy the adults-only all-inclusive option. I highly recommend this. We got upgraded to a room with a huge outdoor balcony featuring a swing, tub, and sitting area. The stocked mini-fridge and room service were included. Plus we had 1.5 bathrooms—multiple bathrooms on vacation is a must for me.

Skip all of the restaurant reviews below if you have no plans to go to the Westin.

Caracola | Solid for lunch and dinner, but not mind-blowing. The seafood salad was best for lunch paired with a refreshing cocktail. The Asian-inspired dinner menu was great for sharing. Try the Chicken Chow Mein, spring rolls, and gyozas. Skip the calamari.

Mitra | Breakfast and lunch buffets served here (although see Faisanela for a better breakfast option). Most important breakfast detail: proper iced coffees! I tried a slushy coffee with Bailey's that easily constituted my daily calorie allowance. Won’t be doing that again. The lunch buffet highlight was seafood paella (pair with tequila shots at your own risk).

Spirula | Skip the mediocre appetizers and save room for pizza and pastas. The Cobb salad was excellent and the Spritzes perfectly balanced.

Faisanela | Marketed as the property's finest restaurant but just okay. Hits: arancini and frutti di mare. Misses: pulpo and the disappointing wine list. They serve breakfast some days—MUCH better quality than Mitra's buffet. All à la carte with excellent omelets and creative mimosa options.

Bamboo | We had dinner at a nice window table, ordering the sushi sampler, gyozas, a few rolls, and sampling every specialty cocktail. Solid overall.

Other amenities:

Tranquil spa area but honestly, you’re better served going for a $20/hour massage on the beach from one of the local vendors—best value anywhere. I also god a gel manicure that didn't last nearly long enough for the cost.
Gym - excellent with lovely golf course views.
Golf course was pristine and challenging; quiet and well-maintained. Some holes offered ocean views, and iguanas were everywhere. Rental clubs were high quality if you don't want to bring your own.
Pro Tip | Fill a bag with beers from your mini-bar—drinks on the course aren't included but no one minds if you bring your own cooler.
Tennis courts were well-kept with a convenient cold water station nearby—essential since it was blazing hot when we played.

The Westin's ultimate selling point is the adults-only pool with swim-up bar. I love a good swim-up bar, especially when it's open bar. Sparkling wine, beers, piña coladas—they have everything. The chicken fingers were excellent. Do NOT get the BLT. Also, beware of coatis—they'll eat anything and aren't afraid of humans.

After a few days of R&R, we drove 45 minutes to Playa Grande to join friends at an Airbnb. En route, we stopped for a beer at Brothers of Ale. Nice outdoor space with great beers but no take-home options, so bring your own growler if that's your plan.

Casa Tres Cocos was for our group. Five bedrooms, 4.5 bathrooms, and ample common areas. The large backyard included a pool, hammocks, and grill. The well-stocked kitchen came with bonus items like boogie boards and beach towels. Plus, the backyard opened directly to the ocean. One caveat: don't rely heavily on the management company—they eventually respond, but you're better off figuring things out yourself. That said, I'd still definitely stay there again.

Backyard of Tres Cocos, what more do you need?

The beach out back of Tres Cocos was stunning.

The beach was stunning with remarkable sunsets, calm water, and quiet surroundings. A short walk brings you to a livelier section with surfers and fishermen. For surfing, visit Matos Surf Shop to rent boards—the staff are friendly and helpful. The Wil-Mart has everything you need—wine, beer, Bloody Mary mix, bug spray—and the owner is exceptionally helpful.

We mostly grilled at the house, but our few restaurant outings were excellent. For lunch, get tacos from Taco Star, where a Texan makes each taco from scratch. Grab a beer and enjoy the people-watching. For dinner, we tried El Huerto for pizza—a cool open-air restaurant with cold beers and creative toppings. Would return to both spots.

The Pacific coast of Costa Rica is renowned for exceptional fishing. We booked with Capullo and were very impressed. Our party of six was picked up at the house and driven to meet the boat in Tamarindo. During our outbound journey, we spotted spinner dolphins doing corkscrew jumps. After hours of trolling without success, I sat in the fighting chair hoping to summon fish through sheer intention. It worked! We each reeled in catches and posed for photos—the fish were slimier and more muscular than expected.

After our fishing day, we returned to the house where chefs from Let Me Cook For You prepared the tuna we caught. Dinner was excellent—fresh and creative.
Pro tip: Ask them to cook everything you catch. We lacked the energy to cook it all and left a substantial amount behind. Fun Fact: Our friend was stung by a scorpion hiding in his shoe. Fortunately, one of the chefs assured us Costa Rican scorpions aren't poisonous, though she warned his lips might go numb—which they did.

Time to bid farewell to our travel companions and head to Nayara. We adore the Relais & Chateaux brand, and Nayara does not disappoint. The drive takes about 3.5 hours, but you can save 20 minutes using the road past the wind farms near Tejona. This shortcut requires four-wheel drive as it's rough. Watch for cows wandering the road.

The grounds of Nayara are like a postcard.

Upon arrival, we were escorted to a jungle terrace and offered welcome drinks with rum. I knew immediately I'd love it here.
Pro Tip | Book excursions immediately upon check-in—weather changes quickly, so selecting a "best weather day" is futile.

The resort is hilly and lush with winding paths throughout the property. We frequently got lost the first day. Our room was spectacular with a jungle-view deck featuring a hammock, comfortable chairs, and hot tub—like a private residence. At night, howler monkeys ran across our roof, vocalizing loudly.

The enormous, comfortable bed came with nightly turndown service including homemade treats on our nightstands. The outdoor shower was my favorite amenity. This place is stunning and peaceful—I never wanted to leave.

The restaurants are excellent and diverse, though expensive. (Skip this section if you're not planning to visit Nayara.)

Cielito Lindo | Main pool with swim-up bar. The busiest, most social pool—ideal for meeting other travelers.

Amor Loco | Decor reminiscent of New Orleans. We dined here our first night at a pleasant outdoor table by the pool. Several mushroom dishes were available—either a popular local ingredient or they needed to use them up. The waiter-recommended Mushroom Ceviche was underwhelming. The Zucchini Flower Blossoms were the superior appetizer. The meal improved dramatically with the Tropical Cazuela Seafood Bouillabaisse—flavorful with red and green curry and bean glass noodles, served on a charming fish plate.

Kali Kali | Though Happy Hour is offered at several bars (take advantage given the sky high drink prices), this was my favorite. We watched the first half of the Super Bowl from the swim-up bar. The mint coladas were outstanding.

Nostalgia Wine Bar | We dined here twice, both times excellent. For our first visit, we sat at the bar for the Super Bowl's second half. This venue offers various wines via dispensers, with knowledgeable staff happy to guide you through. your tastings. The sushi rolls, gyoza, and crab wontons were all excellent. On our second visit, we joined new friends for a custom menu with wine pairings on the deck. The creative menu included heart-shaped sushi, tuna crudo, beef yakitori with potatoes, fish, and a sweet egg roll dessert. Excellent. All the food comes from Asia Luna if you're choosing between restaurants.

Mis Amores | Our usual breakfast spot and it was excellent. Strong, delicious iced coffee, tasty food, delightful bird watching, and possibly the best French toast ever—definitely order it. We had dinner here one night but were too inebriated to remember details. I believe I had pasta.

Room Service | The fish tacos and falafel pita were excellent. Skip the Caesar salad—small and disappointing.

We did two excursions from the hotel: Caño Negro and Rio Celeste. Highly recommend both, though we lacked time for more. Nayara provided coffee and breakfast for the journey and arranged lunch at local restaurants post-excursion. Note: These excursions are expensive—you could self-drive to both and save money, which is what I would do next time. Rio Celeste particularly would be easy to self-guide. If budget isn't a concern, the hotel makes it seamless and provides excellent guides.

Excursion #1: Caño Negro | The 2.5-hour drive is worthwhile. We passed abundant wildlife and diverse farms—sugar cane, papaya, orange, pineapple, etc. Trees are planted in lines as natural fences are always a point of fascination for me. I absorbed every detail, asking questions like an enthusiastic fourth-grader. I’m sure the guide loved that.

We had a private pontoon boat stocked with cold beers and waters. Wildlife appeared immediately. Highlights: lazy howler monkeys, navigating countless cow patties back to the boat, Chris's facial mosquito bites, iguanas leaping from trees to escape Capuchin monkeys (dubbed the "Monkey Mafia" by our guide for their thieving, bullying behavior), caimans, Jesus Christ lizards (named for their ability to run on water), egrets, turtles, and numerous spider monkeys swinging wildly through trees. We saw only a few local fishermen on the river. The peaceful journey concluded with ice-cold beers celebrating our successful wildlife sightings.

On the return trip, we lunched in La Fortuna. Excellent local cuisine, deliciously filling, with outstanding house-made hot sauce.

A majestic toucan sam. — A majestic Toucan Sam.

Excursion #2: Rio Celeste | During our drive, our guide somehow spotted a toucan while driving 40mph. We stopped for photos. Toucans are as colorful as Sam, the Fruit Loops mascot.

The hike takes just over an hour round-trip and is manageable—no steep hills, plenty of shade, and only slightly rocky paths in places. The impressive turquoise waterfall requires navigating a knotted stairway that might challenge those with knee problems. The sulfur springs assaulted my nostrils. A tiny suspension bridges added mild adventure. Overall, a great hike with diverse sights and scents.

Returning, we stopped for lunch at Tenorio—another excellent local spot. We had spinach soup followed by arroz con pollo with fries and chicken fajitas. Everything was delicious. We also visited Árbol de la Paz, a massive 400-year-old tree. While impressive, it warranted only a five-minute stop. We visited because it was en route—I wouldn't go out of my way for it.

A few more notes about how AMAZING Nayara is:

Hot springs | The main one has a bar, but we chose a secluded spring for privacy. I'm not typically a hot tub fan (too hot), but these were perfect—like a very warm bath. Relaxing in warm water overlooking the jungle was blissful.

Gym | Well-equipped with water and towels.

Yoga | Highly recommended. A spacious yoga pagoda offers free morning classes. During one session, a torrential downpour created a magical experience—stretching while listening to rain.

Spa | Lovely. My gel manicure looked great and lasted ages.

After six blissful days at Nayara, we headed to Tamarindo. I have mixed feelings about Tamarindo so I've created a separate post about it here.

Post-Tamarindo, we left at dawn for the four-hour drive to Los Sueños Marriott. We needed a PCR Covid test 72 hours before our flight, and fortunately, the Marriott offered on-site testing, simplifying our logistics.

Our room was lovely with an in-room hammock and a private terrace with steps into a shared pool. Several shared donut floats were available for our use.

Despite being a highly-rated property, the restaurants disappointed. Head off-property for better quality meals.

Hacienda Kitchen | Breakfast included, but hot items cost extra except waffles. We had waffles both mornings.

Zoe | Decent tacos and burger. Poor beer selection (no craft options).

Ocho | Our first night's dinner was okay but had an odd vibe—aiming for "high-end sports bar" but achieving "formerly upscale bar that's seen better days." Non-functional overhead fans made it very hot. We ordered ceviche to start, with octopus and tuna mains. Main courses arrived within five minutes of the appetizer, so they offered a complimentary dessert, which was actually the best part.

Bambu | For our final Costa Rican dinner, we visited the marina hoping for excellence. It wasn't meant to be. The restaurant was adequate but unremarkable.

After an exceptional three weeks traversing Costa Rica, we'll definitely return. It's a beautiful country with abundant offerings. Pura vida.

THE LOGISTICS

Travel Date | February 2021

Flights | AMS > LIR then SJO > AMS on KLM

Lodging |

Hilton Garden Inn | Recommend as a quality spot for a night to shake off your flight before heading somewhere better
Westin | Recommend if you’re looking for a nice all-inclusive, adults-only stay
Casa Tres Cocos | Highly recommend for a group of family or friends
Nayara | Highly, highly recommend
Marriott | For those who are ok with mediocre food and just need a place to stay that is not far from the airport

Transportation |

Budget | Excellent service at good prices

Pro Tips |

Driving in Costa Rica can oscillate between paved and unpaved roads; four wheel drive is recommended and a manual transmission is useful. Heavy traffic on single lane roads can create delays, so plan your road trips accordingly if you’re on a time table.
Mosquitos are no joke in Costa Rica. Carry individually wrapped Off Wipes everywhere.
At the Westin skip the spa and opt for a massage on the beach - they are easily the best value. We went daily.
Nayara
- It’s pricey so make the effort to get to the daily two-for-one cocktails at happy hour. Everything is freshly made and delicious.
- Book excursions as soon as possible. The weather every day turns on a dime so it’s typically no use trying to pick the” best weather day”.
- No need to bring rain gear. Umbrellas and ponchos are available on property and for excursions.
- Wear closed toed shoes on all of the excursions and bring flip flops if you think you’ll need them.

#195Postcards

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