Fukuoka is known for its street food markets and, more specifically, their Yatai food stands, so that is a must. Super cool concept where they have maybe 10 stools at a bar that surround the grill. You order while you wait for a stool to become available and then you sit, eat, drink your beer, pay in cash, and get lost. The whole process is very fun and social and also very efficient.

Hashimaki - basically snacks on sticks - at the Yatai

We walked along all of the Yatai to get a feel for our options. The vibe was lively with mediocre street performers and loads of different food options. We started with a stand on the bridge that had nearby picnic tables. It felt like a gentle immersion into the process. First up: hashimaki - basically snacks on sticks - and our first Asahi beers of the trip. We then moved on to a proper stand for robata which included a grilled avocado. All delicious. If we weren’t trying to beat our jet lag and make the most of our two days in Fukuoka we probably would have stayed out for more.

For our only full day in Fukuoka we visited the Nanzoin Temple. This is a great half day trip since it’s a short train ride away from the city and the temple is a short walk from the station. The main attraction is The Reclining Buddha; one of the largest bronze pieces in the world.

Posing in front ofThe Reclining Buddha for scale

The temple is delightfully tranquil. The sounds of gently running water serve as the soundtrack as you wander through the little stone buddhas wearing red knit caps. Apparently red is used to expel demons and illness. Each buddha represents a different focus, or wish, and you can donate to any or all of the buddhas depending on what you are praying for.

Although the temple is very welcoming of tourists, the temple is primarily a place of worship so appropriate dress and quiet behavior is expected. Luckily for me, the temple offered free shawls so that I could cover my tank top.

We wandered the grounds for about an hour. The set up is convenient whether you have 30 minutes or 3 hours to explore. Plus there is a charming little gift shop at the entrance if you desperately need a magnet or a tote bag.

Back on the train to Ohrio Park. What a beautiful way to spend an afternoon. I opted for a swirl ice cream cone to keep me company on the walk as we wandered through the park and enjoyed the ducks and the turtles and people out in the swan boats. There’s also a really nice running path through and around the park if you’re so inclined.

Nearby are the Japanese Gardens and the Castle Ruins. We choose poorly and explored the ruins. They are…..very much ruined….and the views are ok, but if I were to go again I would have gone to the Japanese Gardens.

After a 30-minute walk we arrived at Shin Shin for some Hakata Ramen. Excellent. Everyone eats SO much faster than we do. They have a slurping technique we haven’t mastered. But whether you’re eating fast or slow I highly recommend this spot. And then I recommend you walk a few miles to work it off.

There are a ton of shrines and temples in Fukuoka so we created a route to pass by a few on our way back to the hotel. Two of note:

Kegojinja - Very casual. Nice to pass through but no need to spend a lot of time there
Kushida - ninja - Very cool Torii gates with orange walkway and a huge float they use for the July parade

After a well-earned glass of Moet in the hotel lounge, it’s off to Shokudo Sakanaya Shonen for dinner. The focus is fish, the entire menu is in Japanese and it’s very clearly a local spot. They practically laugh when we walk in. Luckily for us one of the other patrons spoke excellent Japanese and English and came over to provide guidance and recommendations. He did not steer us wrong. It’s impossible to know what we ate ate but it was delicious and somehow the local fish has bones you can eat. We’ll have to get that recipe.

Post-dinner nightcap at Bar Cherokee. In typical fashion, the bar is hidden in an office building accessible by a creaky elevator. The interior is very sleek with a long polished wood bar and a cozy seating area at the end of the bar. We sat at the bar so we could chat with the bartender. He was very knowledgeable and engaging and had an impressive selection of older spirits. They also make their own spirits which are excellent. Def worth a try .

Highly recommend Fukuoka for a visit!

THE LOGISTICS

Travel Date | May 2023

Flights | AMS > HKG > FUK on Cathay Pacific

Lodging | Grand Hyatt Fukuoka

Super easy to get to from the airport on public transit, with minimal walking from Hakata Station.
Great lounge with views of the fountains in the mall; serving Moet and offering a nice evening buffet
Breakfast was really good and offered a blend of western and local options. They even had iced coffee!
Happiness Brewery is new and attached to the lounge bar. Looked like a nice place to stop in.

Transportation | Public transit

Pro Tips |

If you're taking the train from FUK airport you need to go out to the curb at the international terminal and get on the shuttle bus to the domestic terminal. It was about 7min ride. Train station is there
Bikes share the sidewalk with pedestrians so stay alert
Cash is preferred at some food stalls so it’s a good idea to have cash on you at all times, although some places take credit, even Amex
When visiting temples or other religious sights plan to cover knees and shoulders as well as tattoos. Many sights will offer cover ups free of charge if you forget like I did.

#195Postcards

May 12 Fukuoka, Japan: Yatai Food Stands FTW

Jul 8 Madeira and Porto Santo, Portugal

Nov 6 Amsterdam Cocktail Bars

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